Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Equipped By: ? FFA: Jason Haas, 2014
Page Views: 1,005 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 15, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This line has the potential to be a fun enduro jug haul, but it never received a proper cleaning (or any cleaning at all). The climbing is almost entirely on sloper jugs, and it feels like you’re constantly sliding off the dirty, flaky rock, significantly detracting from the experience. Still, if you’re looking to get pumped at a reasonable grade, grab some brushes (and some fresh biners—see below) and clean this baby up!

Begin as for Full Metal Jacket, climbing up and left from The Cowering Spot up a short gray slab. A few powerful moves lead out a short roof to a nice stance in an alcove. Clip out right (and perhaps back-clean), and the follow the horizontal crack straight right on mostly incut jugs with scrunchy feet. Pull up into another alcove and an awkward rest. The crux is clearing the next roof, with off-balance pulls between slopey edges. One final roof, split by a crack system, guards the chains.

Location Suggest change

On the right end of the Bunker, sharing a start with Full Metal Jacket and then veering hard right between the 3rd and 4th bolts. The best belay for this climb is Long Ledge (at the far right end of the lower-right fixed line).

Protection Suggest change

All but the first bolt (on the slab) is fixed, with the nastiest assortment of ratty dogbones and biners you’ll ever see. Pretty much every clipping biner on the route must be manually closed after clipping--use caution.

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