Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Charlie Don't Surf
5.14a/b YDS 8c French 33 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 33 ZA E9 7b British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Bunker
|
|
14:59 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Apoca-Lips Now! S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Born on the 4th of July S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
|
Bunker Boy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
|
|
First Blood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Full Metal Jacket S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Fury S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Saigon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Smear Hunter, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Trooper S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Uncommon Valor S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Valkyrie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.73869, -105.40828 |
| FA: | Equiped by: ?, FFA: Mark Anderson, May 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,544 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 12, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Charlie offers impeccable, Gunks-quality rock and an obvious, direct line in a spectacular position; however, a stark contrast in difficulty detracts somewhat from the route's otherwise classic features. The line boils down to 5.11 jug hauling interrupted by a fierce, V11 boulder problem. Still, it's a worthy challenge for those who have exhausted the better lines, those seeking a roped boulder problem, or those looking for minimal rigging shenanigans. Moisture can be a problem on this line, as indicated by the plentiful black lichen that streaks down the overhangs. During rain and snowmelt, the line is a waterfall, but key holds can remain wet from seepage for weeks afterwards.
Begin from the two-bolt anchor midway out the upper-left fixed line. Easy slab moves lead past a bolt to a steepening wall, split by a seam that ultimately expands into a large right-facing dihedral. Big jugs lead over tiered mini-roofs to a smooth patch of steep, clean pegmatite. Thrutch powerfully over this obstacle, using off-balance liebacks and underclings to reach a jutting jug-block at the base of the corner. Campus up and left out the toe of the hanging panel, paddling up huge quartzite jugs to reach an easy stance below the last roof. Step around the corner, and scramble to the top.
Location
Charlie climbs steep bulges leading into the large right-facing dihedral on the left end of the cave. The line begins from a two bolt anchor midway out the upper-left fixed line (approach via the Bottleneck). This can be belayed from the Dirt Ledge, or from a two-bolt hanging belay located on the upper slab, directly below the dihedral.
2 Comments