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Routes in The Arsenal

Black Caesar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bobby Brown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chain Gang, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colinator, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Das Fruit Machine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Debaser S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doctor Epic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dope Party S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fresh Loaf S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lolanator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente de los Matador Pantalones S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Path, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pollinator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pump-O-Nator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rendezspew S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Salty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slagissimo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smarmacus Maximus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sprayathon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Spurt-a-tron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeal Like A Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Turtle Power S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamin D S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vitamin H S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Colin Lantz, 1993?
Page Views: 6,897 total · 34/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 15, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is far and away the best route in the Arsenal and one of the best sport climbs anywhere. Overhanging 45 feet in 80 with multiple cruxes but no holds smaller than half a pad, this stunning line defines endurance climbing.

While some have climbed this route with a kneescum below the crux and down-rated it to 13b, I'd say it's an honest 13c without the scum.

This route is in the left-center of the Arsenal and starts on the far right side of the long, dirty ledge which runs all the way to Pretty Hate Machine. It has in-situ chain draws and an obvious lunge move to a well-chalked hole at the 5th bolt.

Lean out from the ledge, power up past pockets and fire the lunge (a long reach for tall people). Wickedly steep climbing on ultra-kind jugs leads to the Arapiles bulge, a prelude to the crux. Step up, shake out (kneescum if you must) and punch it out the smooth, white bulge on crimpers. There is potential for some spectacular air if you blow it at the top of the sequence, but the fall is totally clean. Stand up into a bowl, shake out one last time then engage with a tricky finishing sequence en route to the anchors.

Protection

1 or 2 quickdraws for the bottom bolts. The rest of the route is fixed.

Photos

DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
  5.13c
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
  5.13c
I ignored the "kneescum" at the rest below the crux for quite a few attempts, because I heard it was awkward and hard to get and not that restful. But as the season came to a close last fall and I was presented with a final day of freezing temps as my last day to climb this route, I donned a right knee pad and realized that this is no scum, but a full on "almost" no hands below the crux. It's silly not to take this. There's a bit of body English involved in the knee bar, but like all of them, once you get it right, you'll get it all back. Apr 7, 2010
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
I think the FA was summer 1993. It was obvious from the get-go that this one was going to be a classic. The stone quality is impeccable and the moves were enjoyable but challenging. The best route in The Arsenal IMO. Jul 27, 2012

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