Type: Sport
FA: Colin Lantz, 1993?
Page Views: 8,156 total · 36/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 15, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is far and away the best route in the Arsenal and one of the best sport climbs anywhere. Overhanging 45 feet in 80 with multiple cruxes but no holds smaller than half a pad, this stunning line defines endurance climbing.

While some have climbed this route with a kneescum below the crux and down-rated it to 13b, I'd say it's an honest 13c without the scum.

This route is in the left-center of the Arsenal and starts on the far right side of the long, dirty ledge which runs all the way to Pretty Hate Machine. It has in-situ chain draws and an obvious lunge move to a well-chalked hole at the 5th bolt.

Lean out from the ledge, power up past pockets and fire the lunge (a long reach for tall people). Wickedly steep climbing on ultra-kind jugs leads to the Arapiles bulge, a prelude to the crux. Step up, shake out (kneescum if you must) and punch it out the smooth, white bulge on crimpers. There is potential for some spectacular air if you blow it at the top of the sequence, but the fall is totally clean. Stand up into a bowl, shake out one last time then engage with a tricky finishing sequence en route to the anchors.

Protection

1 or 2 quickdraws for the bottom bolts. The rest of the route is fixed.

Photos