Avg: 3.9 from 39 votes
|FA:||Colin Lantz, 1993?|
|Page Views:||9,028 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Sep 15, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
While some have climbed this route with a kneescum below the crux and down-rated it to 13b, I'd say it's an honest 13c without the scum.
This route is in the left-center of the Arsenal and starts on the far right side of the long, dirty ledge which runs all the way to Pretty Hate Machine. It has in-situ chain draws and an obvious lunge move to a well-chalked hole at the 5th bolt.
Lean out from the ledge, power up past pockets and fire the lunge (a long reach for tall people). Wickedly steep climbing on ultra-kind jugs leads to the Arapiles bulge, a prelude to the crux. Step up, shake out (kneescum if you must) and punch it out the smooth, white bulge on crimpers. There is potential for some spectacular air if you blow it at the top of the sequence, but the fall is totally clean. Stand up into a bowl, shake out one last time then engage with a tricky finishing sequence en route to the anchors.