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Full Metal Jacket

5.13c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Equipped by: ? FFA: Mark Anderson, June 2014
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Bunker
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a classic jughaul in the vein of Sprayathon - steep and overhanging virtually the entire way - but with a more distinct crux at 1/3-height. The first body-length roof is skirted to the left, and the second is not as difficult as it appears thanks to some clever jamming opportunities. However, getting established on the headwall immediately above may cause some trouble.

Begin from the far end of the upper-right fixed line. Work up and left up the slab, careful to skirt the X-marked death block. As the wall steepens, jugs appear where you need them, leading up and left around the first roof. Cop a quick shake at a decent stance below the intimidating ceiling. Foot trickery and trad skills will get you to the lip. Crank strenuously up a set of bottoming pods in the big, left-facing offset until itÂ’s possible to throw a foot onto the steep slab. After a well-earned shake, crank through the pegmatite on solid-albeit-flakey jugs to reach the Gunks-like quartzite above. Race the building pump up the unbroken chain of amazing jugs, heel-hooking, toe-camming, and kneebaring along the way to reach the lip of the cave.

Location

Full Metal Jacket is just right of the center of the cave, beginning from the far right end of the upper-right fixed line. The start of the route is shared with 14:59. These routes can be belayed from the stance just below The Bottleneck from a semi-hanging belay from a 1-bolt anchor (which can be backed up with finger-sized cams) at the end of the upper-right fixed line or from a nice flat stance at the far right end of the lower-right fixed line. The latter is probably the most comfortable for all parties. It has also been done from a belay on the Dirt Ledge, but this is not recommended.

Protection

Many bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, currently all are fixed except for the first bolt (on the slab).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The low roof shared by Full Metal Jacket and 14:59.
[Hide Photo] The low roof shared by Full Metal Jacket and 14:59.
Classic jug hauling at the end of Full Metal Jacket.<br>
<br>
Photo Keith North.
[Hide Photo] Classic jug hauling at the end of Full Metal Jacket. Photo Keith North.
Monkeying around on one of many hand-swallowing jugs.
[Hide Photo] Monkeying around on one of many hand-swallowing jugs.
The crux pull onto the pegmatite mini-slab.<br>
<br>
Photo Keith North.
[Hide Photo] The crux pull onto the pegmatite mini-slab. Photo Keith North.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I was looking forward to getting on this route today, but that block that is the size of a dresser at the bottom is not even close to safe. That thing needs to be trundled. I'm definitely not climbing on this route or the 13a that shares the same start till that rig is gone. Scary! Jun 26, 2015