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Routes in Mormon Canyon

Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2
Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nameless Tower, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 573 total, 16/month
Shared By: jacob tipton on Dec 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Follow the line of weakness on the south face. Multiple options exist to gain the limestone band. We used a right facing corner. Found no fixed anchors at first belay but others were well equipped.

I'll leave it to the first ascent party to comment on grades for each pitch, if they choose to. The overall grade should be taken as a loose guideline.

Bring imagination and a sense of adventure and you will be rewarded.

P1 - Gain a spacious ledge on the limestone band. Spelunking may be required. 5.?

P2 - Climb a crack past a bolt then traverse left to a small stance. 5.fun

P3 - Step left then climb cracks and face to summit. Three bolts. Optional belay 30 feet below summit. 5.thrillin

Rap the route with two ropes.

Location

South face of the nameless 300 foot tower across from Earth Angel.

Protection

Gear to 3"
(x1) 4"
Wires
2 ropes

Photos

Ryan Z
 
Ryan Z  
 
P1 - We climbed a chossy corner to mixed cracks up to a #3 roof in the limestone band.

P2- Up a chimney that turns into fists and small O/W (bolt) Keep an eye out at the top of the fist/OW shenanigans. That traverse left is not super obvious.

P3 - I had no idea how to get past the first bolt without yarding on it. After that, it was good fun climbing.

Beware on P3. There is a set of anchors just below the summit. 10 feet higher than the anchors, and on the left side, there is a big block that I hand-jammed behind, and the block slid several inches. It is resting on faith. Unfortunately it is directly above where the climb begins, 300ft off the ground. Feb 6, 2016