The Devil Isn’t Red

A compelling line up a singular weakness on the North face of the Ambulance Ride buttress. Due to uneven quality and logistical challenges it will likely be relegated to obscurity to all but true zealots.

P1 - 5.12  45m.  From the bolted belay, go up the crack feature, then cut left into a devious crux traverse. A sustained rising traverse links into the crack of 70 feet of fingers to thin hands. When the crack dwindles and a secondary seam appears on the right, move right to the mondo ledge on the arete. Take care to runner and/or back clean the start or suffer drag. Both leader and follower should be ready to deal with rope ascension logistics after falling off of traversing terrain.
This pitch is the Dawn Wall for dads.

P2 - 5.12  35m.  Traverse left back onto the face and fight past another crux traverse into a perfect finger crack. After a choss pod, a bolted chimney leads to a ledge under a giant terrace. Another good pitch. 

P3 - 5.10  25m. Go up the grungy right facing corner to a huge ledge, clip a bolt on the short face to connect to the higher right facing corner. Belay from gear on a triangle ledge below the death flake jammed in the munge corner above. Classic Sedona pitch.

P4 - 5.10+  30m.  Climb up right on bolts to the arete, enjoy the amazing position! At the top gently squeeze a hollow flake and move left to a two tier belay ledge. Kind of fun if you don’t mind some choss, but you are in Sedona so you probably love choss.

P5 - 5.10  15m  Move left then up and right on bolts and scrape over the lip on good patina holds to an easy slab with a crack up and left. Bolted belay on shoulder of buttress.

From here, can unrope and hike south to raps of Directions From a Moroni, look for cairns and a 5 foot tall dead tree near the top anchor. 5 raps with a 70m gets you down. Due to the large amount of traversing on the first two pitches you cannot rap the route. Bailing is not an option so top out and make sure you know what you are doing.

Sick crux beta

North face of Ambulance Ride buttress. Approach as for Directions From a Moroni. Best to rack up there as you will rap that route at the end of the day. From the base of Directions, traverse the ledge system left, past an exposed step across, a fall here would be fatal so use a rope if you deem it necessary. Go up a gully through a tree then traverse a ledge left to the arete at the edge of the West and North faces. Step down onto a ledge system then back up to a bolted belay at the start of the route. This approach is 3rd class but involved and you can’t see the route until you are at the belay. 

3x #1 C3 2x .3-#1. 9 draws, 3-4 runners. 70m for the raps.

For the onsight might want more of everything? Most critical extra sizes to bring would be 1C3, .3, .75, 1 but that’s a lot of gear and you only need it much of it for pitch 1.