Avg: 3.7 from 67 votes
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||12,569 total · 126/month|
|Shared By:||J. Snyder on Oct 6, 2014 · Updates|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman|
P1. Belay at a single bolt with a small nuts or red c3 . From belay bubble, step right into a finger crack and up toward the steep potato chip flair with a crack in the back or climb the chimney a few feet right. Pull the wild lip, and move up into varied terrain on quality stone. Belay at tree ledge. 125'. 2 bolt belay. 5.10
Move belay left 40ish feet left to giant ledge and a finger crack on a pillar. Belay at a single bolt and medium nut or small cam in the crack.
P2. Climb obvious finger crack to a small stance, boulder up noob jugs towards protection bolt. Take space ramp with varied low angle crack up and right to optional belay (.75" - 3") outside of the closet or continue 30 feet up and into the tunnel vortex. Rebirth onto a glorious ledge. 130' or 160'. 2 bolt belay. 5.8+
P3. Why you came to the Pearly Gates. Leave belay and climb casual leftward 5.7 ramp out and under the Zion splitter. Enjoy varied crack and unique face holds through single and twin cracks. Angelic. 140'. 2 bolt belay. 5.10
P4. Sedona Classic but in the most classy way. Move up steep hands into the wide. Squiggle Squirm up the wiggle room. Wide climbing for beginners, wild features, fun, 5.9. Mantle onto large ledge.
P5. Boulder up patina jugs up towards a bolt and a thin crack and eventually another bolt, slightly heads up*. From here move up towards the tree and low angle terrain. A final prom night jug haul on quality stone leads to the actual summit and two bolt belay. 5.10.
*It is possible to escape right and join the regular route at the large ledge, bypassing the incredably classic albeit exciting direct finish.
2 bolts and chain rap station on the North side of the summit. Rap the route with 2 ropes or rap Kicked out of Heaven with a 70m
Park at large parking area at Jordan Rd. trail head.
Walk upstream and North in Mormon Wash for about 45min.
Eventually pass the original route approach gully and take next gully up towards 'Made In The Shade' Buttress and towards the North Face of Earth Angel. Thrash and herbivore up Earth slabs and eventually onto the first pitch belay tier. Traverse out onto rock from veg-town. Slightly primitive. IV. 60-90 min.
Rap from summit to top of P3. 200'
P3 to the top of P2. 130'
P2 to the top of P1. 150'
P1 to Earth. 130'
- *NOTE** Smaller rap chains make pulling a thicker diameter rope difficult. If you are using a thinner tag line, use this to run through anchors, it will help avoid a heavy pull.