Type: Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches
FA: F.A. Michael Hren, Damian Suess, Matt Barneich, June 1997 | F.F.A. B. McCord, Z, Harrison, May 2019
Page Views: 270 total · 53/month
Shared By: Blake M on May 20, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

After spending many many days in Mormon Canyon eyeing the large Coconino wall left of Ambulance Ride which was rumored to have an Aid line on it called Full Contact Origami, Zach and I decided to check it out.  We were surprised to onsight the first 4 pitches and nearly the 5th. From here, uncertain as to where the original route went we decided to blast straight up the rad overhanging water streaked wall above.

After some asking around we were able to track down the FA party and learn more about the route.  The FA party used Full Contact Origami as a training ground for their big wall party skills in preparation for routes in Zion.

With the blessing of Micheal we added one bolt to the traverse on pitch 3 and beefed up all the belays to 2 bolts.

P1  5.11 PG-13   Mantle easy ledges into the corner. Pull up the thin flake and layback up to the ledge with a lone bolt. Continue up the flare as it morphs into a tips corner. Belay on a jug stance.

P2  5.11- PG-13   Step right and gingerly work up to a blocky alcove. Continue up and pull onto the face with rad twin cracks. Belay on cozy bush ledge.

P3 5.11 PG-13    Climb up and left off the ledge on good patina holds to a thin seam. Gain a stance and traverse left (bolt) and down! to another stance. Climb into the crack and enjoy great sequences on clean rock to a stance with a old bolt. Another great boulder problem gains a ledge on the right.

P4 5.10+ PG-13  Climb straight up hand crack then left on blocky jugs into the crack. Broken rock humping leads to a right trending flake. Commit up the flake and punch it to another hand crack. Belay below roof on small stance.

P5  5.12- PG-13 Blast the rifle roof and squirm through a slot.  Gain the steep hand and finger crack, fighting the pump until the angle rolls over, clip a lone bolt and quest up to the belay 20 feet higher. From here the original route traverses right to lower angle terrain 

P6 5.11+ PG-13 Climb up and left on the ramp past two bolts. Climb straight up on massive jugs to gain a horizontal with gear and a slab above.. Climb the slab past a bolt to a mini roof (gear) move left to a seam with a tiny cam.  Gain the ledge stance and move 15' right to a bolt.  Climb up pumpy jugs and non-jugs past 4 more bolts, finishing with a traverse 10' right and enjoy an amazing belay seat.

Location

Hike up Mormon canyon 45 min or so until you get to the earth angel approach trail. Continue up the main wash 5 min to a small side drainage on the right. Go up this until you encounter some ancient fixed rope in a chimney. Climb this and continue up to slickrock slabs. This leads to the saddle of Misguided Angel. Hike right  (~400') to the base of the obvious system in the middle of the huge wall to to your right.Total approach time 1-2 HR. 

Protection

Doubles Red C3- #2
Single Green C3, #3
Extra .75
Small - Med Nuts
6 Runners
5 Draws
70M rope

Getting Down

From the top rap back to the start of pitch 6. Then make a short rap right down a trough to an off-route station. From here rap to the start of pitch 4, swinging in under the roof. A third hand is recommended. Rap the next pitch and then continue straight down past two off-route stations.

Photos