Avg: 2.2 from 31 votes
Routes in Mormon Canyon
|Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2|
|Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Nameless Tower, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||S. Baxter, G. Douglass 1970's|
|Page Views:||4,444 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Kole DeCou on Jan 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is the spire in front of the Mushroom that you see on the way to Earth Angel. It's a fun little adventure. Most of the climbing is 5.6 and under until the last move, which unless you hang out at Kelly Canyon a lot is a major sandbag at 5.9. Pitch 1 is shady, but the rest of the route is in the sun.
Pitch 1) 5.6 80' Start at the high point of the notch, and climb the easy chimney/flare into a spooky place. The crux is at a little rooflet. Either belay in the spooky place, or traverse left a bit and belay on a cool ledge.
Pitch 2) 5.6 100' Do not climb the choss above your head!! Traverse the limestone band left (south) half-way around the spire. Belay when you can no longer pull the rope. Most of the gear on the traverse is at your feet, in the limestone.
Pitch 3) 5.6 120' Find an easy chimney to go up on the right side of a pillar (left side also looks climbable). Go up to ledgy terrain and build a belay under the bolt on the summit block. Belay takes blue and black aliens (and you can use the bolt)
Pitch 4) 5.9+ 20' Clip the bolt and claw your way past a very strenuous mantle.
Descent: 3 raps to the notch.
Rap 1: 20' Rap off the summit block. The bolts were naked and un-rappable when we were there. After scratching our heads for a while we left webbing but no rap rings, so bring your own stuff. It now occurs to me that the party that placed the bolts must have simul-rapped the summit block.
Rap 2: 20' Rap off a slung block to a 2 bolt anchor at the top of a chimney.
Rap 3: 150' Back to your packs.