Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Z. Harrison, B. McCord|
|Page Views:||2,204 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Blake M on Nov 8, 2016|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
This line climbs nothing up a hold covered face. The line features minimal protection bolts and maximum outrageous gear placements. Place gear when you find it, and always be on the hunt.
Route faces west and bakes in the sun in the afternoon. All anchors are bolted.
Pitch 1 - 120' - 5.10
Mini-quest up the slab to a small crack below a large roof. Plug some nuts and jam, heel hook and jug your way through the roof and onto the slab above, where your quest continues straight up to the top bunk belay ledge. (Its nice to extend the anchor so you can belay on the lower ledge)
Pitch 2 - 122' - 5.10+
Head up the chimney moving right at the bush continuing up the system until it ends. From here quest up and right to a lone bolt (Bolt out left here is the original line, not quite as good, a good option if you hate bolts. 2 pitches of 5.10 questing rejoins this line at base of p4), then keep questing to the system above, pull a roof and belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 3 - 110' - 5.11-
Follow the bolts. .3/.4 could be helpful at the top of the pitch.
Pitch 4 - 80' - 5.11
Climb the center lead wall up and left to the obvious hand/fist crack. Burl onto the overhanging pillar, and up to the offset above. Slap, boulder, clip a bolt, and pull into an alcove. Pull hero jugs to the belay ledge.
Pitch 5 - 120' = 5.11-?+....
Follow bolts up the arete slab. When they end work left and enable your geardar. Follow patina and weaknesses to the top.
Hike up Mormon Canyon to its end. Exit left past brush to a slab. Up right, over limestone band to more brush. At the slab, solo up to a bolt, crank a move then hike up right (.5 c4 protects the follower from pendulum of the year), to an anchor. Follow bowl up, at its top move right on slabs to the base of the wall. Route starts below roof band. Look for hand crack 40' up. 2HR. 5.10.
Rap Route. Watch you tails, raps are close. 70m required.