Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mormon Canyon

Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2
Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nameless Tower, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Page Views: 965 total · 47/month
Shared By: Blake M on Nov 8, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This line climbs nothing up a hold covered face. The line features minimal protection bolts and maximum outrageous gear placements. Place gear when you find it, and always be on the hunt.

Route faces west and bakes in the sun in the afternoon. All anchors are bolted.

Pitch 1 - 120' - 5.10
Mini-quest up the slab to a small crack below a large roof. Plug some nuts and jam, heel hook and jug your way through the roof and onto the slab above, where your quest continues straight up to the top bunk belay ledge. (Its nice to extend the anchor so you can belay on the lower ledge)

Pitch 2 - 122' - 5.10+
Head up the chimney moving right at the bush continuing up the system until it ends. From here quest up and right to a lone bolt (Bolt out left here is the original line, not quite as good, a good option if you hate bolts. 2 pitches of 5.10 questing rejoins this line at base of p4), then keep questing to the system above, pull a roof and belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 3 - 110' - 5.11-
Follow the bolts. .3/.4 could be helpful at the top of the pitch.

Pitch 4 - 80' - 5.11
Climb the center lead wall up and left to the obvious hand/fist crack. Burl onto the overhanging pillar, and up to the offset above. Pimp slap, boulder, clip a bolt, and pull into an alcove. Pull hero jugs to the belay ledge.

Pitch 5 - 120' = 5.11-?+....
Follow bolts up the arete slab. When they end work left and enable your geardar. Follow patina and weaknesses to the top.

Approach

Hike up Mormon Canyon to its end. Exit left past brush to a slab. Up right, over limestone band to more brush. At the slab, solo up to a bolt, crank a move then hike up right (.5 c4 protects the follower from pendulum of the year), to an anchor. Follow bowl up, at its top move right on slabs to the base of the wall. Route starts below roof band. Look for hand crack 40' up. 2HR. 5.10.

Decent
Rap Route. Watch you tails, raps are close. 70m required.

Location

Protection

Doubles red c3 - #2 c4
Single #3, green c3
Optional purple c3
10 Draws/Runners

Photos

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.11 PG13
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
  5.11 PG13
Super unique! Every hold in Sedona retired to this climb. Sustained patina face climbing with heads up, creative gear. A little piece of Red Rocks here in Sedona. Killer setting, feels even taller then it is. The only downside is the long approach, but well worth it. Nov 8, 2016

More About Hot Hookers

Printer-Friendly