Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||E. Webster, B. Becker|
|Page Views:||1,399 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Kole DeCou on Feb 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThe Scrotum Pole competes with Secret Spire for the most erect spire in Sedona, especially when viewed from the north-west. The route is kinda scary, but is 90% on pretty good rock with only 3 feet of true choss. The R-rated part is steep face climbing on solid rock with a 20 ft. ledge fall potential. The route description in the Toula Guide is wrong, but the location is correct.
Start at the notch on the east side.
Pitch 1: 5.9 60' Climb up cracks to the limestone band. Surmount the limestone either the splitter hand crack on the right, or the chimney on the left (looks way easier.) If you do the hand crack variation (fun) you then have to do a difficult traverse to get back on track. Belay on top of the limestone at a tree.
Pitch 2: 5.3 (net zero feet) There is a big block blocking your westward progress. Climb up one side and down the other and establish a belay again on the limestone band but on the other side of the block. Belay takes finger sized and a bolt.
Pitch 3: 5.10R 70' Traverse left past 2 bolts into a crack. This crack pinches down to a seam. Climb good varnish into some dried mud. If worried about rope drag build a belay behind a pillar on the ledge after the mud. Otherwise continue up to a drilled pin, traverse right and up on nice solid holds that keep getting steeper all the way to the top (Wild! 5.10R). Belay from the summit block.