Type: Trad, 120 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: E. Webster, B. Becker
Page Views: 1,519 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Feb 26, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

The Scrotum Pole competes with Secret Spire for the most erect spire in Sedona, especially when viewed from the north-west. The route is kinda scary, but is 90% on pretty good rock with only 3 feet of true choss. The R-rated part is steep face climbing on solid rock with a 20 ft. ledge fall potential. The route description in the Toula Guide is wrong, but the location is correct.

Start at the notch on the east side.

Pitch 1: 5.9 60' Climb up cracks to the limestone band. Surmount the limestone either the splitter hand crack on the right, or the chimney on the left (looks way easier.) If you do the hand crack variation (fun) you then have to do a difficult traverse to get back on track. Belay on top of the limestone at a tree.

Pitch 2: 5.3 (net zero feet) There is a big block blocking your westward progress. Climb up one side and down the other and establish a belay again on the limestone band but on the other side of the block. Belay takes finger sized and a bolt.

Pitch 3: 5.10R 70' Traverse left past 2 bolts into a crack. This crack pinches down to a seam. Climb good varnish into some dried mud. If worried about rope drag build a belay behind a pillar on the ledge after the mud. Otherwise continue up to a drilled pin, traverse right and up on nice solid holds that keep getting steeper all the way to the top (Wild! 5.10R). Belay from the summit block.

Location

Park at Mormon Canyon trail head, as for Earth Angel. Drop into the wash, and hike up it for 1/2 hour. Just before Goliath/Mushroom, there is a huge and prominant 400' tall prow of rock on the right. Find the wash heading up the right side of this prow (opposite side from the Mushroom gulley). Scramble up this wash until you see the Scrotum Pole on the right. You'll know it when you see it. Start at the high point of the notch.

Protection

2 each black Alien to #3.5 Camalot, 1 #5 or #6 Camalot, nuts. 2 ropes or 1 70m rope. Webbing, bolt kit optional. We replaced the webbing and the mankier of the 2 bolts (2/26/07), the remaining original is a little iffy.

Photos