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Routes in Mormon Canyon

Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2
Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nameless Tower, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Aid, 50 ft
FA: First prusik ascent: JF, PD First aid ascent: GH and MM?
Page Views: 889 total, 9/month
Shared By: Geir on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A thin crack starting from the ledge after the first rappel from the summit of Earth Angel.

You'll find yourself aiding it if your rope gets stuck when you pull the rappel line. :)

Start about 10' left of the rap anchor. Curse several times. Aid up several moves to a big, angular, irritating outward flaring crack. Work through the crack and pull over a bulge. The difficulties back off a bit ... free a couple of 5.9 moves. Place a couple sketchy pieces and aid a few more moves. Pull on to a ledge with a big block. Untangle your rope from it and descend.

Protection

Doubles of small cams, small to medium wires.

Photos

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Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
hey paul! i had an autobloc around the stuck rope as some extra pro (but didn't use it for forward progress!). that block is a pain in the neck, isn't it? for the sake of good fun, i've added you and john to the FA list. :)

out of curiosity, how many other people have aided this crack to get their rope back? anyone freed it? Jun 9, 2009
One of the times we did this climb, John Fleming prusiked the stuck rope while protecting in the crack in case of failure. The stuck rope was just a simple U shape in the very end of the rope jammed in the crack. And to think that John was going to prusik up the rope without the belay. Pretty amazing that it never pulled for the whole prusik up. Jun 9, 2009
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Ahhhh, good times. Jun 3, 2009