Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 657 total · 25/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Oct 7, 2022
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Another nice climb on mostly good rock in Mormon. Shorter for the area and with some options to link with other routes in the area. Gets shade in the afternoon. The crux pitch is pretty amazing! 

P1 - 5.10  90 ft Same as Ambulance Ride, this is the entrance fee. Climb up easy terrain to a bulge, move right to a bolt and then back left into the dihedral to chimney slot.  
From anchor, move belay right 25 feet on terrace to a finger crack.

P2 - 5.11 60 ft Climb straight up the low angled crack to a few bolts leading into steep pods. Belay on small triangle ledge.

P3 - 5.12- 150 ft Chimney, stem and jam the mega tips to hands corner (Continue past a hanging rap station on the left for full credit) into even more tips crack. At the big sloping ledge, clip a bolt out left and climb the arete to another sloping ledge.

P4 - 5.11+ 110ft Up the crack past some tricky sequences, into a bolted section with reachy moves through crusty overhanging face. Move left in the roof crux and belay on ledge just below the top. Runner the 2 bolts in the overhang or suffer.
Only need singles of cams for this pitch from 1C3- #4.
Rap route with a 70m, or link with other routes on the buttress.  Faith in the Stone would offer the best rap line directly back to the nice staging area at the base. 

Location Suggest change

Located on the Ambulance Ride buttress. On the approach, once you reach the saddle of Misguided Angel, look for a long right facing corner capped by a roof on the buttress across the drainage. Traverse under the Full Contact Origami wall to the route. The route starts off with an exposed traverse right from the staging area to a belay under the first pitch.

Protection Suggest change

1x 000 C3
1x 00 C3
1-3x 0 C3
3-4x 1 C3
3-4x .3
1x .4
1x .5
2x .75
1x #1
2x #2
1x #4
8 draws 3 runners
70 m

Photos

loading