Type: Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 9 pitches
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Page Views: 2,493 total · 48/month
Shared By: Blake M on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Tall, steep and sustained, this imposing line has many good-great pitches with some choss thrown in for adventure (It is Sedona). Its crazy that it isn’t harder. The climbing has all styles and an emphasis on wide. Full tool belt needed for an enjoyable round trip.

P1 “Green Queen” climb the thin finger crack in the corner to a ledge on the left. Committing crux moves to another small ledge on the left with a rap station. 5.11+ 80 feet.

P2 “Road trip to Indian creek” Climb the sweet thin hands to wide hands corner. Pull into an alcove. Squirm out of the alcove on fists. Gear belay with BD#4,5 cams on tiny foot ledge. 5.11-, 90 feet

P3 “Burchamville highway” Climb left on donut bars, pockets and jugs past a fractured flake. Inventive moves lead to a flake crack and a semi hanging bolted anchor on the left. 5.11 60 feet. Clip 1x#5 to 3rd bolt to retrieve later.

P4 “Granite pitch” Move up the flake crack to a bolt. Transfer right with fickle gear into the flare. Ride flakes up right to a small ledge with a rap station 5.10+ 80 feet.

P5 “Wild planet” Chimsquirm up the wide crack to the roof. Bust out right on fingers into a hanging flare. Jam out the 2nd roof with huge exposure to varied cracks. Belay at rap station. 5.11 100 feet

P6 “ Sedona special” Climb easy corner with munge to a nice finger-thin hands crack section out a bulge. Wiggle into the squeeze chimney with blocks. Bust out a wild move to the huge ledge with a rap station. 5.10- 70 feet.

P7 “Welcome to Red Rocks” Climb the thin hands corner traverse left on cool pockets past 2 bolts to the arête. Awesome patina features and small gear lead up to another bolt. The position here is great! Continue up left to finger crack. Belay on small ledge with rap station. 5.11- 70 feet.

P8 “Headwall” Climb iron hard thin hands crack to wideness. Sustained fists with patina jugs up the headwall. Roll onto the slab and cruise to rap station. 5.10 100 feet.

P9 ”Summit pitch” Yup summit pitch, climb easy wide cracks with patina to ledge. Stay straight above short finger crack into chim slot. Summit a tower! 5.9 100 feet.

Rap route with 1x70m. A “third hand” rappel friction knot is highly recommended. Maintaining swing is sometimes needed. When rapping P5 multiple directionals need to be placed in order to not be left hanging in space 300 feet off the deck!! Pick up your #5 on the P3 traverse and find hanging rap station below. This station is off route. Swing hard right to get back to the top of P1.

Location

Hike up Mormon canyon 45 min or so until you get to the earth angel approach trail. Continue 5 min to a small side drainage on the right. Go up this until you encounter some ancient fixed rope in a chimney. Climb this and continue up to slickrock slabs. This leads to the saddle of Misguided Angel. Hike left 200 feet along base of wall to huge left facing corner. Total approach time 1-2 HR.

Protection

Gear small-med nuts. 1x #0C3, 2x #1C3-BD#5, w 3x#4’s, 1x BD#6. 2 draws, 5 runners.

Photos