Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Todd Skinner & Craig Smith, 1987
Page Views: 327 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Zschiesche's Problem shares a start with Rage to Live, but continues straight up through the black streak where Rage traverses left. A well-defined one move crux is encountered after the third bolt; height, reach and sharp hold tolerance are huge assets here (at 5' 11" tall with a +3 ape index, I was at full extension). From an obvious clipping jug at the fourth bolt, the climbing eases considerably through the ripples to the base of a weird wide crack. A big runout through this feature guards the chains. The climbing is easy, though the crack can be damp and mossy as it is fully in the black water streak. There is a possibility for a cam placement to make this section safer if you choose to do so.

Location

Start as for Rage to Live in the black streak towards the middle of the wall (left of Lessons in Yorkshire) but shoot straight up instead of traversing left at the second bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. Optional small hand size cam (probably 1 or .75 Camalot) to reduce the runout at the top if you so choose.

Photos

- No Photos -
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Updated the FA info. Thanks. Apr 11, 2016
Just for the record I did the first ascent with Todd. On the day we were trying it in turn and he got it on one of his goes. As a result I seconded it!
Best wishes,
Craig Smith Apr 11, 2016