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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alex McIntyre, April 2013
Page Views: 448 total · 7/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on May 21, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Starting on Hebe, climb to the glued flakes (the rest jug) and move left through some shouldery moves onto Climb with a View/Trapezoid at the top of the 2nd crux of that route. Finish on Climb with a View/Trapezoid.

This isn't really a proud line or anything but more of a way to avoid the now-sketchy 6th bolt on Hebe if you aren't psyched on climbing over a bolt with the threads stripped and nut at the end of the stud (until we replace it, of course). Otherwise, it's another, easier way of accessing the amazing mail slots at the top of Climb with a View/Trapezoid (provided you have efficient beta for Hebe).

Location

Downhill (climber's left) end of Beaver Wall, starting off the 2nd to last tier. Starts on Hebe.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains (with fixed lower off biners as of 5/22/2013). A double length draw on the first bolt after the traverse is a good idea (as is unclipping this draw after clipping the next one) to reduce the inevitable rope drag.

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Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I didn't post this until now because I was trying to think of a clever name. I never did. The one star rating is a bit of a misnomer, as the movement is cool and it does linkup what are, in my opinion, two 4 star lines. However, it is still just a linkup and isn't special in its own right. May 22, 2013

More About Hebe to CWAV [Var]

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