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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Steiger, John Jurashek, 1983 12c/d finish: Bob Murray, 1984,
Page Views: 650 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

JJ and I worked on this for a full day, from the ground up, taking numerous falls and lowering to the ground. JJ unlocked the sequence but the no-falls lead fell to me, and we named it Trapeze for the wild, sideways swinging fall onto a fixed pin if you blew the end of the crux section. We knew it wasn't ever going to be a classic, but it was fine, hard, exciting trad lead. Two years later, the incredible Bob Murray top-roped a line that started on Trapeze, then, where the original line traversed left to a hanging corner, went straight up, producing another Beaver Wall tips shredder at 5.12c/d.

Later, apparently in 1986, someone decided to bolt Bob's toprope problem, resulting in two bolts on our original line (the second apparently replacing the fixed pin), and Hidetaka Suzuki -- according to EFR's 2000 guide -- got the first redpoint. Fast forward to 1993, someone else bolts up another sport route between the original Trapeze and Bob's now-bolted line, calling it Easy on the Beaver, and -- from what I can tell -- further screwing up the trad lead.

To savor some of the original experience, using trad gear, pretend the first bolt isn't there and climb up to the second, clip it, then traverse left and up into an obvious hanging corner (ignoring the bolts on Easy) and follow this line to the Alley Oop ledge. For Bob's line, continue more or less straight up from the second bolt past two more (I think) to the ledge.

Location

The next route left of Climb with a View.

Protection

Standard rack to maybe a 2" cam.

Photos

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That's great info Alex. It is amazing how sandbagged some of the older routes were. Those guys worked on the route the whole day and called it 11+. John Steiger could climb really hard stuff back in the day but as often happened didn't think he could climb that hard so he called it 11+. Thanks for posting up. I will raise the grade in the upcoming guide to 12-. Jun 16, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
As I have now done everything in this section of the Beaver Wall I can confirm that neither the bolts on Sparky nor the bolts on Easy interfere with Trapeze. Instead of taking it to the Alley Oop ledge I traversed left along a handrail at the top of the corner on Trapeze and reached down to clip the anchors on Sparky Vision, as the slab to the ledge looked like 5.7 and I wanted to lower to clean. Trapeze felt about as hard as Easy on the Beaver did, which was quite unexpected and really shows how grading has changed over time. Easy (maybe without the traverse?) must have been the direct Trapeze finish; there isn't really another line possible through that area of the wall. Jun 14, 2014
The route left of Trapeze is called Sparky Vision 5.12. Easy on the Beaver is as it appears in the guidebook. It looks like Easy was TR'd by Bob Murray so I don't know what Suzuki did. Not sure where I got the Suzuki info. Maybe Jbak or RR. It sounds from what JS wrote that Easy is what Murray TR'd. Go do all those things and see if you can figure it out Alex. Apr 2, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Looking at the guidebook now (thanks EFR!), I can confirm a couple things. Easy on the Beaver is actually left of the Trapeze corner, and the bolts do not interfere with Trapeze. What is called Easy on the Beaver in the book I believe is actually the direct finish to Trapeze referenced above, and these bolts also do not seem to interfere with Trapeze original. Apr 2, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I don't have the guidebook in front of me, but I was out at the Beaver wall today and it appears that the "Easy on the Beaver" bolts are actually left of the Trapeze corner and probably not interfering with the original route. Sep 16, 2012