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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first bolt line left of Last Supper, the prominent crack line on the right side of the east face, and despite it's rating it's one of the easier routes on the wall.

A superb route that features continuous thin edges up a slightly overhanging wall with no stopper moves. Fun moves on excellent rock make this a great introduction to the harder lines on the Beaver Wall.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

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karatepete
tucson, AZ
karatepete   tucson, AZ
Solid 12c. Mar 7, 2010
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
GORE Oct 15, 2009
iancevans
  5.12c
iancevans  
  5.12c
Got on this for the first time today. I counted _two_ terrible crimps, one after the other, the first of which put a nice hole in my right index finger (if you climb it soon you'll see my blood and Matt's blood on most of the holds after the crux).

Rad climb. Oct 6, 2009
WSnyder
  5.12c
WSnyder  
  5.12c
I too am remembering only one poor crimp. The others must be standard Mt. Lemmon fare at the grade. History does give this route an extra star in my book too. The mad Brit doing the direct finish sans pro and Mark Hathaway's memories of belaying Lynn Hill on her onsight to name a couple. Those of you who have heard Mark's story know what I'm talking about. Jul 17, 2006
jbak
  5.12c
jbak  
  5.12c
Way.

Compared to other Beaver Wall routes RT is fairly benign. Try Lessons if you like crimps. Jul 6, 2006
I wouldn't compare this to Green Ripper, which is BY FAR a better climb. I'm a crimp-o-maniac and this had some nasty suckers on it. One bad crimp........no way! Jul 6, 2006
jbak
  5.12c
jbak  
  5.12c
Well it's only got ONE really nasty crimp. If it were a brand new route I would probably only give it a weak 2 stars, but history alone earns the 3rd. It was a widely known test-piece in the late 80s. It's sustained and the red-point crux is near the end. Jul 5, 2006
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
You have to really like crimps to enjoy this route. Difficulty based on holds rather than movement, but I guess thats Mount Lemmon. Jun 19, 2006
Jimbo  
I've heard it's either .12b+ or .12c-. I think it depends on the position of the moon, the ambient air temperature, dew point and humidity.
Remember it's about the journey not the numbers. Mar 8, 2006
B or C can we quit splitting hairs. I could climb it ten times and half the time I would call it b and half c. It is solid 12 and it is a good introduction to the thin crimps of the Beaver Wall. Feb 27, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Did this a long time ago, but it seemed about as hard as Green Ripper which I did the same trip. Feb 16, 2006
jbak
  5.12c
jbak  
  5.12c
I could be wrong, but AFAIK this route has always been the yardstick for 12c on Mt. Lemmon. Feb 16, 2006