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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Craig Smith 1987
Page Views: 2,263 total, 38/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Feb 7, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This amazing line starts in the black streak left of Lessons in Yorkshire. At the second bolt, Rage traverses left 20 feet on good edges and cool moves to the start of the crux section, just left of a short crack visible higher up. An extremely technical sequence on some bad and thin holds leads to some powerful pulls once the crack is gained (several sequences are possible here). This crux is pretty much finished once the horizontal ripples are reached. The upper climbing is really fun and amazingly pumpy despite being a fair bit easier than the bottom 2/3's of the route. This is an absolutely stellar line that is closer to vertical than a lot of the harder Beaver Wall routes. A technical masterpiece.

An alternate start called Rage Direct begins 10 feet left with a semi-mandatory stick clipped first bolt. This adds a height-dependent crimpy V6 boulder problem to the start. It makes it harder, but how much I'm not sure as you still get a decent rest before the crux of Rage to Live is encountered.

Location

Shares a start with Zschiesche, the black water streak left of Lessons, but moves left at the second bolt.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Any knowledge on whether the hold at the end of the traverse has broken? There's clear evidence of breakage and also what looks like glue residue. Apr 8, 2017
karatepete
tucson, AZ
karatepete   tucson, AZ
I finally took the draws down off Rage yesterday. They were my quicklinks connected to my friend's Petzl slings and bottom biners. I've heard someone was projecting the route. I noticed on the bolt #6 (the draw above the finger crack) there was an extended draw. I can't remember if that was there before. If not I have the extension and i'd be happy to return the extension sling & biner. Thanks! Mar 9, 2017
karatepete
tucson, AZ
karatepete   tucson, AZ
Canada Eric mentioned there was a discussion about my DMM Mambas on the route. I was just on the proj Tues and the draws looked fine, even fell on bolt 4 (the long one). I'm heading back on Monday & i'll check it out again. Thanks for letting me know. Hopefully it'll go soon, thanks again. Jan 30, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Luke, those are Peter Piek's project draws. The last set of draws he had up were stolen so he put up the Mambas with quicklinks to ensure that won't happen. They aren't permadraws and Pete will take them down when he sends. If you are worried about that runner I'd suggest talking to him about it. Jan 29, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I just checked my guidebook. SQL2 says Craig Smith did the FA of the traverse start in 1987 and Brad Smith did the FA of Rage Direct in 1988.

While I've heard of several repeats of this line before this last year, I haven't heard anything about previous repeats of Rage Direct. I'm surprised as the movement is really good and interesting, as long as you can reach the holds at the start. May 22, 2013
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
So after being asked it I had done the FA of Rage I thought I'd check to see. This doesn't clear it up at all. I'm pretty sure in retrospect that I did the FA of the Direct Rage. I wouldn't put much stock in my memory, however. May 8, 2013
jbak  
Alex... I'm glad you loved the route. But I gotta tell you, my memory of this route (15-20 yrs ago) is quite a bit different ! Didn't >>Brad<< Smith do the FA ? Feb 8, 2013