Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Alex Kirkpatrick
Page Views: 1,302 total · 21/month
Shared By: Alex Kirkpatrick on Dec 15, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This route is a link up beginning on Trapezoid and finishing on Hebe. Climb Trapezoid through all of its crux climbing (the last bolt you will clip is the 5th) but instead of exiting left to romp hero jugs to the top of the wall, make one move right into the flake "rest" on Hebe and continue to the top through the crux of Hebe.

As link ups go, this is a mega one. It is longer and provides more sustained difficult, classic climbing than anything else on the wall.

For me this route is both an ode to the Beaver Wall and a reminder that climbing is silly and pointless unless you personally find meaning in it. Very very psyched to have completed a dream project.

Location

Begins on Trapezoid and finishes on Hebe

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

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Alex Kirkpatrick
  5.14a
Alex Kirkpatrick  
  5.14a
The proposed grade is a suggestion at best. I do think that this route is harder than Hebe. Climbing Hebe to the rest clocks in around 13a in my opinion, and to do the link up you climb through all of the hard climbing on Trapezoid, which seems to be settling in around 13b. You have also done significantly more climbing, and I felt more pumped arriving at the rest on Hebe. The grade makes sense for me based on the other grades on this wall, but who knows. Come find out and set me straight! Dec 15, 2013
Alex Kirkpatrick
  5.14a
Alex Kirkpatrick  
  5.14a
A few folks have asked me about the name:

"Hebe was worshipped as a goddess of pardons or forgiveness; freed prisoners would hang their chains in the sacred grove of her sanctuary at Phlius." Dec 20, 2013