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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, Ray Ringle 1986
Page Views: 4,401 total, 45/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 14, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Technical hard face climbing around a crack then really technical finger locks to finish it off. Three bolts, two of which were placed to replace a couple of drilled pins. At this time the route has been done on gear alone and the bolts were skipped. Braxton Norwood called it the Brazilian Beaver if you skip the bolts.

Location

Second crack you come to, on the left side of the Beaver Wall.

Protection

4 bolts and gear up to a green camalot. The route has now been climbed without clipping the bolts. Good gear can be found but it is difficult to find bomber gear and place it. A few of the placements were found on TR runs using bolts to back up until the integrity of the piece was verified.

Photos

Nice Eric!

I told you that old men can still get beaver! Jul 30, 2010
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
Congratulations Eric! It is quite obvious that you really worked that route and the payoff was huge. Cheers from Tony! Jul 18, 2010
Julie Messier
Tucson, AZ
Julie Messier   Tucson, AZ
SE-WEET !!!! Congrats Eric ! Way to go on perseverance :-) Jun 5, 2010
Way to go, Eric! I'm sorry I missed it, but glad to have seen the video :-) I'm so happy for you! Jun 4, 2010
jbak  
Ah.... the old hi-torque, leg-push rotation fall. I figured that must be what did it.

I once saw someone knock themselves cold doing that on a boulder problem and they were on a sit-start only 3 feet off the ground. At Campbell Cliff. Jun 2, 2010
Why I started wearing Geir's Helmet.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP_rmd7JicI Jun 2, 2010
I tried repeatedly to do the layback. After about 30 minutes I decided (warriors way) to try a different approach. I then worked out the sequence you see in the video. This beta worked for David and I. I always figured Hideataka laybacked up the thing.

Drilled Pins were replaced with bolts but I don't know who did it. Jun 1, 2010
Nice one Eric. I very much enjoyed watching the video.

I noticed you did the top crux section the 'hard way'! I did it with Todd Skinner around '86 and he did it that way. I took the 'easy' option and climbed the crux crack by laybackin the right hand side of the crack then crossing through. Wolfgang Gullich did it this way too :)

Could somebody clarify for me when the bolts appeared? I'm more or less certain when Todd and I did it the gear was nuts, friends and and fixed pins.

All the best,

Craig Jun 1, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
yeah eric! May 31, 2010
Thanks everyone. Need to give credit to Chris Prewitt who decided to try Golden Beaver on gear alone. He got the ball rolling. Then David Merin really pushed hard and did GB then GB left. If I hadn't agreed to help David work out the final crack section I would never have even tried it. Once I did all the moves that first day I knew I had to do it. I have cursed David more than once. Fortunately the moves are really cool and the holds are the friendliest on this cliff. 3 of the last 5 months working on it, around 40 failures on it, with all but about 6 on lead, make this my hardest redpoint and really sweet. Thanks again for all the belays and encouragement. May 30, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Nice Eric!!! May 30, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
CONGRATS ERIC!! This is an amazing accomplishment! Many thanks to Eric (and Dave Merin too) for pushing the Mt. Lemmon trad threshold and inspiring all of us to climb harder and better. May 30, 2010
Did not know you barely sent...Congrats...On my birthday too.....How ironic..Congrats. May 30, 2010
jbak  
The aspect ratio of the video makes you look even MORE like a red dwarf ! Awesome send youth ! What's that on your head ? May 30, 2010
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Nice Eric! Also proof you wore a helmet too. May 30, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
From the video it appears that he only clipped one of the anchors. Not a controlled finish. Doesn't count.

Seriously though... nice work Eric! Amazing! May 30, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
WOWWWEEEEEEE!!!!! Holy bad-assness, Eric. Fantastic work and so cool to have it on video. Big, big congrats to you =) May 30, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Wow, looks like super-thin and technical footwork. Nice job. May 30, 2010
On Saturday, May 29 Eric Rhicard walked up this thing, thus finally assuring that 1. He most definitely is one talented climber, and 2. that he won't have to listen to anyone ask how his project at the Beaver is going. Awesome send!

Check out the video I unsteadily filmed here:
youtube.com/watch?v=RnbteKa… May 30, 2010
Congrats to Brian! Jan 18, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Wow! Another redpoint! Nice! Jan 16, 2010
Guy named Brian from S. Africa did it on Tuesday. I worked it with him and he felt it was definitely 13a and maybe b. He also did it placing all the pro as he climbed it. Jan 15, 2010
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
truly an awesome feat. great job david!

has this seen an ascent since? Jan 14, 2010
Hey Mike, at this point there is no need to do anything. I think it is cool that someone can do it with or without the bolts. The experience I get from skipping bolts is great. Let them rust away. This route is pretty hard to protect and the bolts allowed me (not sure about David) to back up the pro when I was jump testing them. They also allow our partners to TR the thing without trashing the gear. Check out the discussion for Golden Beaver. Chopping bolts just because you lead it is more about ego. Don't like them don't use them. These bolts were put in to replace drilled pins. If nothing else the bolts are a bit of history. That thing you did is different. I would talk to the FA guys about it. Dec 30, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
So what are you guys going to do with the bolts? We're grappling with similar questions here in Northern AZ.

mountainproject.com/v/arizo… Dec 30, 2009
Congratulations! Strong work! Dec 18, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
holy shit david!!!! incredible work!!!!!

hope you got some photos and send this one into climbing or r&i. Dec 18, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
daaaaaaaayam nice job david! Dec 18, 2009
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
Another great tick for the tribe. Great job David! Dec 18, 2009
Aleix  
Congrats David. You are the King, way to show us who's boss in this mountain. Dec 18, 2009
Jimbo  
David is now an offical member, in good standing, of the EFR FA posse!! Dec 18, 2009
Rock on, David. You're the man! Dec 17, 2009
12/17/09 David Merin sent this route on his third run of the day. He placed all of his own protection from the ground up each time he lead it. He skipped all four of the existing bolts. This might be the hardest 100% clean trad route in southern Arizona. It is also the first 5.13 David has ever done. Nice job! Dec 17, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
You guys are awesome! Keep up the hard work!! Dec 17, 2009
Thanks Josh Dec 15, 2009
Josh Janes    
Sorry Eric... it was tongue in cheek. I think it's great that David Merin is attempting a rock climb. I hope he can succeed at improving upon the style of the FFA which apparently involved bolting a crack. Dec 14, 2009
No innuendo or hidden agendas Josh. Not planning on chopping anything. David Merin is trying to lead it on pro by skipping the bolts. He already did The Golden Beaver that way. You could be more specific. Maybe I am too tired to see a joke. Help me. Thanks. Dec 14, 2009
Josh Janes    
This description is full of innuendo and hidden agendas. Dec 14, 2009