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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Greg Rupp
Page Views: 451 total, 10/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Feb 26, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The Plate is likely the worst route on the Beaver Wall. Pull off the ground on good edges past the first bolt, reach up high and clip the second, then get ready for pain. Pull down on disgustingly sharp, tiny crimps in the black rock heading left towards the plate feature. Pull some cruxy moves establishing on the plate and moving the feet up then make a big move left to another serrated edge. Move up to a bigger hold to clip the 4th bolt and move left then back right to the chains. Be careful of the fall up here, the holds are slopey and there is potential to pendulum into the corner.

This isn't the worst climb I've ever been on, but with so many high quality climbs on the wall, this one deserves to languish in obscurity.

Location

The Plate is the rightmost bolted route on the Beaver Wall, 50 feet right of Dead By 30 and 10 feet left of a shallow corner listed as a toprope in STL2.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Tasty LOL John.

No problem Alex, I thought you might have misread what Eric had written. :) Mar 2, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
A few years ago there was a bail biner on this route and I made it my mission to snag it and send the route in the process. I ended up aid soloing the route with a grigri and aiders to retrieve it and check out the holds. I came back later with a friend and managed to take a rather large fall from the leftmost point in the traverse up high and swung hard into the corner. I gave it another run but didn't get very far (it was the middle of July, ;long before I had figured out the "sending temps" thing) and left it. Last Tuesday I was at the Beaver with Pete Piek and did it 3rd go of the day as part of a larger goal I have in mind. It wasn't as bad as I had remembered it but, as I said, didn't find it to be remarkable in any way especially considering its surroundings. I'd love to hear your history with the route jbak, maybe it could change my mind about it. Mar 2, 2014
jbak
  5.12a/b
jbak  
  5.12a/b
I gave this poor little route 2 stars: one for me, and one because I think Alex hurt its feelings.

I actually think it's a decent little roped boulder problem. And strangely, I have a bit of history and funny (to me anyway) stories/memories surrounding this little problem.

I like the way those razors bite into my fat sausages. Tasty. Mar 1, 2014
Hey Alex, I wish I had seen it pre-edit. No worries. It is hard to include a wink and a chuckle on an internet post. You have done enough around here to realize I give almost everything I have ever climbed at least one star. I didn't realize Jbak had given it two stars as I thought you had just posted it. So I would like to redirect my comment toward Jbak.

Jbak likes pulling on razorblades and eating them. Mar 1, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Geir,

I read Eric's comment wrong the first time to read "This is my problem with you" which would seem to fit with some correspondence we've had in the past on the topic. I've edited my reply accordingly. Thanks for the heads up. Feb 28, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Hey Alex,

As I look at Eric's post I'm pretty sure it was intended to be humorous and friendly. He often jokes that he loves climbing everything; his remark that you also love climbing everything doesn't seem to be derogatory. Just my take. Feb 28, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I gave it zero stars. jbak gave it two. This one isn't very enjoyable, in my opinion. The movement isn't very interesting, the holds are basically razorblades (more so than almost any other holds on the Beaver Wall I can think of) and the line it takes isn't very inspiring to me. I do enjoy most climbing I do, but this one is pretty meh. Feb 28, 2014
I think it is funny you give it two stars Alex! It is the "worst route on the Beaver Wall." The worst route on this wall is still (good), which is what two stars represent on MP. You have my problem. You like climbing, everything. Feb 28, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I climb this so that others don't have to. Feb 27, 2014