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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: McEwen and Baker; 1972
Page Views: 2,924 total, 19/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the tall, southern (left) end of the Beaver Wall. Climb a finger crack that widens to hands through a small roof. Belay at bolts on ledge. The second pitch starts off with an off-width crack that is protected with a large cam. Good wide climbing takes you to a ledge. There are a couple variations for topping out, the easiest of which is reached by continuing farther right on lower angled rock. Straight up thin cracks is better. Descend from anchors on top of Highlander (to the left on top of tower) or it possible to walk off.

Protection

Standard rack to 4"

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Did the first pitch then went right on the big ledge and up a ringlock crack, which was real fun (maybe the top of trapeze?) Mar 6, 2016
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
i brought out the big guns for p2 and placed a 4, 5, and 6 in the offwidth. the 5 and 6 aren't strictly necessary but i was really glad i had them.

and yeah, the offwidth is indeed the best part of this climb. recommended. Nov 24, 2014
david krivan
truckee
david krivan   truckee
I thought getting into the offwidth felt very insecure. There is a great hand jam but you cannot reach it at first. Your last gear in the hand/finger cracks is a ways down at this point. I liked clipping a belay anchor and extending it with a double plus single shoulder. I extended my gear with shoulders in the crack, and clipped the rope directly to my camalots in the offwidth, and felt rope drag was manageable. awesome climbing, in your face at times. Solid 9 is totally fair for this one. Apr 2, 2012
ryan dillon
Tucson, AZ.
  5.8+
ryan dillon   Tucson, AZ.
  5.8+
Found a rope bag at the base of this climb. Get back to me with the description and it shall be returned. Jul 27, 2010
ryan dillon
Tucson, AZ.
  5.8+
ryan dillon   Tucson, AZ.
  5.8+
An awesome line if you run it all together. Not many of these types of routes on Lemmon. May 21, 2010
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.9
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.9
the first pitch is great for a first aid climb. you have to do the last move free but theres a giant horn. its a good thing the pro is awesome the whole way up because a 5.8 trad leader might get thrashed on this. Oct 25, 2007
Actually you have to walk a couple of hundred feet past the descent for this route to find the belay bolts at the top of this cliff Jun 24, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.9
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.9
If I remember correctly, it is bolts. I think there are in fact two sets of bolts on this one. But you can double check as you approach, because you walk right past the top of the route. The top is at the same level as the parking area and the approach trail. Jun 22, 2006
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9
What's the belay situation at the top of this climb? Gear, sling blocks or trees, cold shuts?

Thanks Jun 20, 2006
Jimbo  
After you do the first two pitches, which can and should be led as one, there is a straight up variation that starts off the left side of the big ledge. It's 5.10 and a fun finish if you done the standard finish before.
Look for a few bolts up and out left when your standing on the big ledge. Mar 8, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.9
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.9
Cool. I'll try it next time. May 20, 2005
Lame. The off-width is the BEST part of this climb. May 20, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.9
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.9
I concur with Gary. This route is easily a full grade harder than Jambrosia, which is a 5.8 of similar style (stemming and jamming) and identical rock type.

We didn't do the offwidth second pitch, instead opting out on Alley Oop, 5.7, to the right. This was completely unexciting. I think a better option if you want to avoid the offwidth is to just do pitch one, rap, and then climb Vistacruiser, 5.7. Jan 2, 2005
This is the hardest 5.8 I've ever done! May 26, 2004