Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brad Smith
Page Views: 2,010 total, 19/month
Shared By: jbak on Mar 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Brad could CLIMB. He redpointed this over 20 years ago.

3 finger-tearing, bouldery cruxes separated by decent shakes, then a bit of pump to the chains.

Location

Between Zschiesche (the black streak to the left) and Right Tissue (the black streak to the right).

Protection

bolts

Photos

Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Good question. I don't remember, to be honest. Rage to Live, right? Didn't Craig Smith put that up? I think I climbed it, though. If that's what I'm thinking about with the two starts then I have no recollection of LiY was like. It's all a blur, really. We were all pushing ourselves and had people like Craig and Lynn Hill and Todd Skinner going out with us and encouraging our efforts. It seems like every day was starting, working on, or finishing another FA. Heady times. May 8, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Hey Brad... I think you are thinking of Rage when you talk about the two starts. Didn't you FA Rage ? May 7, 2013
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Glad you liked the route. I think I remember two starts to that route, direct and a traverse of some kind, right? How are you guys starting? As I look back, I only remember doing the direct, probably because of the effort put forth, but seem to recall the traverse being a little more interesting. Or was is just more contrived? It's been so long. I need to make a trip back to revisit the days of grind and glory ... May 6, 2013
LiamOden
  5.13a
LiamOden  
  5.13a
I have to agree with alex, pretty friendly crimps aside from the opening moves. Super fun route. Just out curiosity is this line all natural? Mar 28, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Strong work Alex ! Mar 25, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
  5.13a
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
  5.13a
Probably the fewest crimps on this route that I've ever pulled at the Beaver Wall; there's quite a few full pad or more edges, but only a couple small crimps. Really cool, powerful, yet body-tension-mandatory movement. Lots of nonstandard Beaver Wall hold types like slopers and underclings. I enjoyed this route a lot! Mar 24, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Well....that explains a LOT... Apr 16, 2010
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Parsifal Bradley Allen Smith-Hill ... It's a family curse. Understand why I used Brad for so long?

My daughter's name is Ryanne Connie Smith-Simonsen. I tried desperately to convince my wife to call her RC Smith. No luck ... Apr 16, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Wait... you mean it says "Parsifal" on your birth cert ? Apr 16, 2010
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
A guy stops climbing and look at what they say about him ... It's Parsifal, actually. Apr 13, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
That nickname was one of the things we made fun of. I think Brad's initials were well-chosen. Mar 13, 2009
That's Parsifal to you sir.

And you are absolutely correct.
6' 6" (8?) made for a good target and the mop on top was an excellent radar deflector.

But as you say, the lad his moments (on and off the rock.) Mar 13, 2009