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Routes in Beaver Wall

Chains in the Grove [Var] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Climb With A View T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dead By 30 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Easy on the Beaver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Beaver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Golden Beaver Left T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hebe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highlander S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Supper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lessons In Yorkshire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plate, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poplar Mechanics S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rage to Live S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Right Tissue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky Vision S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stems and Seeds T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trapezoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vistacruiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zschiesche's Problem S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dan Michael, 1991
Page Views: 10,055 total, 72/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Mt. Lemmon's hardest route to date. Has seen very few ascents despite a lot of attempts by some very talented climbers. A lot of very difficult and technical climbing packed into roughly 65-70ft.
Bring your power and your skin to play on this one. Best to work on when its nice and crisp or say goodbye to your fingertips.

Location

On Beaver wall proper located between "Climb with a View/Trapezoid" and "Golden Beaver"

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Wow. For such a magnificent-looking route I would have assumed it to have more recorded ascents. Could this be due to a lack of suitors? From the look of it - and from the fact that Hans Florine totally commented - it seems that this route deserves much more attention. I would be thankful to have a chance at getting utterly beat down on this thing when I am out there this coming spring. Nov 19, 2013
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dan Michael succeeded on the first ascent after weeks of work in winter 1991. He graded it 5.13c/d at the time! Jul 26, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Congrats Alex!!! Oct 31, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Damn, nice work Alex! Oct 22, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
The 4th ascent has been accomplished! Congratulations to Alex Kirkpatrick on the redpoint. Oct 22, 2012
Wes Turner   az
wow. Hans Florine commented. Thats cool. :D Jul 13, 2010
Hebe, pronounced he be, goddess of youth and the daughter of Hera and Zues. Apr 11, 2010
I remember that the rappeling crowd was regularly visiting the Beaver Wall and it would be highly likely that they would come upon fixed draws and the draws would magically not be fixed and end up with the rappelers. TOO easy for anyone to rappel over this route, if you are on a budget, don't leave gear on the route. Jan 28, 2010
hahaha danny u WOULD try to redpoint this crazy ass route! this is adam by the way ill TR this with u any day of the week budday! ;) Jan 18, 2010
dkirk
Tucson, AZ
dkirk   Tucson, AZ
After setting up a TR on this climb TONS of times in the past few months, I have decided that I can be a little less lazy and not leave fixed draws on the climb. Thanks for the input everyone! Nov 28, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
MAYBE DO IT! Nov 25, 2009
DON'T DO IT! Nov 24, 2009
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
DO IT! Nov 24, 2009
dkirk
Tucson, AZ
dkirk   Tucson, AZ
Hi everyone, was talking over the idea, with a climbing partner, of putting some fixed draws (specifically quick draws with a quick link to the bolt) on this climb for the winter. There are a couple of us working the climb, on weekly basis, and this would make things easier. Just wanted to see if anyone was opposed with the idea before I do this. Oct 19, 2009
Hi John, yup this is Danny. Thanks for the info on the draws. My newness to the sport is showing quite well and it won't be the last time. Apr 21, 2009
jbak
 
jbak  
 
That you danny ?...we were talkin about Hebe in the gym ?

Don't worry too much about weather exposure on draws. It takes many months for it to become a problem. When the draws get stiff and crusty, then you can worry. Apr 21, 2009
dkirk
Tucson, AZ
dkirk   Tucson, AZ
Hi Everyone,

I just started working on this route today (4/12/09) and left some draws on bolts 1-5, I believe. I was using these draws as directionals (was working on top-rope) and will be leaving them for this purpose, for the time being. Please do not use them for leading up the climb as weather and sun may make them unable to hold a fall any longer. If I start leading this climb, I will replace the draws with other ones and take them down on a daily basis.

Thanks a lot. Apr 12, 2009
This is my favorite route in the world that I never red-pointed. (Yet)

You can put the "-" behind the "5.14", but I think it IS a 5.14.

I remember when Bitter got his ascent, I tracked him down and called him and congratulated him. Fricken awesome send at any age. Whoa this might be serendipity, I'm turning 45 this year, maybe I am experienced enough now to send it!

I found the best temperature on this route was about 61 degrees. Not to hot to melt your fingers and not too cold to cramp you up between goes.

Best of luck with this one. Speed be with you. Jan 29, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
According to "Wizards of Rock" by Pat Ament, Dan Michael made the FA in 1990. This would make Hebe one of the first 5.14s in the country (assuming the grade is solid).

Also according to the same source, Merril Bitter sent Hebe in May 1998, at age 45. Jan 28, 2009
Well thanks guys. Looks like it might be a nice late afternoon project, and a good one to train on. And being right next to the Golden Beaver, double trouble. . .

As for chipping holds, it blows my mind. But, you can't change the past. Hopefully future generations will co-exist with the rock in a little friendlier manner. Of course I am saying this before I get on the route. The chipped holds might come in handy during red-point attempts.

Thanks Again May 13, 2008
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Eric I'm pretty sure Mike did the drilling and went for the FA. Ray was involved, perhaps equally. I think Mike turned it over after he gave it his best shot. I talked to Mike about it not long ago so this is a fairly recent memory. But my brain can be pretty foggy. May 12, 2008
Hey Jbak, I thought it was Ray Ringle and Dan Michael that created this route? Dan did the FA. I know that he and Ray created F... Me Pumps which has never seen an FA. I think Hans had fifty some attempts on this route. May 12, 2008
jbak
 
jbak  
 
It has lots of history, a veritable saga of failure. Mike Head drilled it and attempted the FA but I believe could do no better than a 2-hang (which is still damn good). The FA by Dan Michael (probably the most honed climber I've ever seen) has to be a milestone in AZ climbing -- almost 20 years ago now. No local has succeeded including Scully and Miles Kunkel although I saw Miles one-hang it. Only 3 redpoints total and only 1 by an Arizonan -- Greg Varela of Phoenix. I watched one of his attempts and was blown away by his ability to get recovery shakes in places I could barely hold on. Hans Florine used to stop by regularly to get shut down by it.

Scully once said it was the best route on Mt. Lemmon. I know Miles had a very high opinion of it too. It has at least one chipped hold if that bothers you. It is not that sharp IIRC, most holds are half to full pad. May 12, 2008
Howdy. Was looking for a little history and opinions for this route. I've kicked around the idea of working on it, and was just wondering if anyone has been on it recently? Just looking for a little information before I cheese grate my finger tips into little nubs.

Thanks if advance. May 12, 2008