PRINT: Rock Climb Zschiesche's Problem, Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

Zschiesche's Problem

5.12+, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: Todd Skinner & Craig Smith, 1987
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 4 - Windy Point… > Beaver Wall

Description

Zschiesche's Problem shares a start with Rage to Live, but continues straight up through the black streak where Rage traverses left. A well-defined one move crux is encountered after the third bolt; height, reach and sharp hold tolerance are huge assets here (at 5' 11" tall with a +3 ape index, I was at full extension). From an obvious clipping jug at the fourth bolt, the climbing eases considerably through the ripples to the base of a weird wide crack. A big runout through this feature guards the chains. The climbing is easy, though the crack can be damp and mossy as it is fully in the black water streak. There is a possibility for a cam placement to make this section safer if you choose to do so.

Location

Start as for Rage to Live in the black streak towards the middle of the wall (left of Lessons in Yorkshire) but shoot straight up instead of traversing left at the second bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. Optional small hand size cam (probably 1 or .75 Camalot) to reduce the runout at the top if you so choose.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Craig Smith

Just for the record I did the first ascent with Todd. On the day we were trying it in turn and he got it on one of his goes. As a result I seconded it!
Best wishes,
Craig Smith Apr 11, 2016

Hendrixson
Littleton, CO

Updated the FA info. Thanks. Apr 11, 2016

Eric Zschiesche
Ogden, UT

A little backstory on this route,.. and the attached name. Ha ha,.. it probably came from my attempt on the route in the early 80's with a handful of wired nuts. I went up to the Beaver Wall with my friend Jeff White. In the spirit of the day,.. I went for a ground up trad attempt, placing some small wires behind a flake,.. before going for it. Dead-pointing on small crimps,.. I popped off about 20 feet off the deck. Fell past my gear, promptly ripping it out,.. landing with a collapsing dust producing thud at the base of the route. Dazed,.. I eventually walked back to the parking area at Windy Point. Amazingly,.. with the exception of some good abrasions,.. I did not receive any severe injuries. A few weeks later, I returned and placed a single bolt off the same wires that pulled. After placing the bolt,.. I gave a couple of tries,.. but with questionable gear available on the above terrain,.. and my immediate past history,.. I shelved the climb, and moved on. May 19, 2020

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson

Thanks for the history lesson Eric Z. May 20, 2020

jbak x
tucson, az

5.12+

Yeah EZ... thanks. I always assumed you did the FA. May 20, 2020

jbak x
tucson, az

5.12+

A 40 meter rope is plenty for this route. Nov 13, 2022