Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tzilla and Co.
Page Views: 1,368 total · 26/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Holy Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained.

Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.

The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather). Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above. This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy. The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.

The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.

Location

On the right side of Wipeyur Buttress, there is a large, overhanging wall that makes up the right face of a huge cave/dihedral. Holy Crap starts in the lower left corner of this right face and heads pretty much straight to the right for 3 or 4 bolts and then directly upwards on steep rock for a long ways. There is a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge, as well as a fixed chain with a biner about halfway up to help make cleaning the route possible.

Protection

Many bolts (you can probably count them from below, but it is probably in the 15 to 20 range, plus 2 bolts at the anchors.

Photos

Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very, very solid climb! I won't talk about it too much, but bring your endurance... it's about 17? bolts, I believe! You can also bail halfway after the first crux on a perma. Have fun! Oct 17, 2014
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
This route was the best I did at Devil's Head by a longshot. The bottom overhanging part is insanely fun and fun to work the moves on. Some good resting technique is necessary to not be pumped for the upper dihedral exit -- don't underestimate the top half! What a fun climb! Sep 3, 2018
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12+
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12+
Accidentally started on the wrong route - there's seems to be an alternate start. Go two lines left of Snapping Station. Just left seems to be an older line (?) with broken holds?

This is a very different style, but I personally found it harder than Morning Thunder. Oct 20, 2018