Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||Tzilla and Co.|
|Page Views:||1,154 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Sep 10, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionHoly Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained.
Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.
The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather). Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above. This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy. The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.
The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.