Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
Routes in Wipeyur Buttress
|Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Junk in the Trunk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Paper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Plastic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Racing Stripes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||Tzilla and Co.|
|Page Views:||1,127 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Sep 10, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionHoly Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained.
Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.
The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather). Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above. This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy. The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.
The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.