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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Racing Stripes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Carrington
Page Views: 91 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike Carrington on Nov 12, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Clip the first bolt, lock off, and make a long reach to a slopey hold. Make your way up under the roof with a challenging mantel. Traverse out the roof, and cut your feet loose to get them on the arete at the lip of the roof. Layback and squeeze your way up delicate and powerful climbing to get to more positive holds above the bulge to get to the anchors.

Location

This is the second climb from the left and one of the first ones you will see as you approach the crag from the trail in.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

I got lucky and I didn't see them, but as it warmed up, there is a nest of wasps in the crack just right of the first bolt. Apr 15, 2018

More About Peanut the Wonder Horse

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