Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Racing Stripes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Little help here?
Page Views: 1,334 total, 21/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Oct 9, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Raptor Closures Details

Description

'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls.

Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner).

The crux for most will be a sequence about 2/3 of the way up the route where you must make a series of moves using a vertical, shallow, flaring crack for your right hand before making a long move to a decent left hand hold and a brief rest - the fun part is that this section comes after you have already done several 5.12 sections!! The climbing is difficult from the moment you step out of the gully until you latch a key jug above the final bolt.

Location

Morning Thunder is the second route as you climb up the gully that begins on the far left side of the Wipeyur Buttress (the first is Heinous Anus).

Protection

11 bolts (including 3 bolts in the approach gully) plus anchors.

Photos

drewhouser
  5.12c/d
drewhouser  
  5.12c/d
IMHO, this is one of the best sport routes in the Front Range. Sep 8, 2016
slim

  5.12d
slim    
  5.12d
I think 12d is probably fair for this route. Agreed that there aren't any shutdown moves on it, but by the time you get to the crux, you have some wear and tear on you. When I tried it the first time, I thought I would get it really quick, but I kept unraveling at the crux, and it took me more tries than I thought it would. Great route, the climbing is superb on this one. Sep 2, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
A quick note about the grade: one of my guides calls it 12d/13a, and one calls it 12d. I originally thought that this route was about 12c; however, my partner told me that I was being a bit harsh (i.e. a dick!). There are not any 13a (or even 12d) moves on this route, but the route does have quite a lot of 5.12 climbing without any real rest stances; thus perhaps 12d is fair. Regardless, this route is excellent. Get on it. Oct 9, 2012