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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Racing Stripes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 213 total · 3/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Jun 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb the gully/chimney past 5 bolts. For the most part, this is an easy scramble. The bolts serve to keep the rope running smoothly and out of the garbage in the gully.

After the 5th bolt and right before a chockstone, begin climbing up the line of bolts on the steep face to your left. The climbing is sustained from here but well-protected. A mix of balancy and slightly awkward laybacking and smearing on steep rock will keep you on your toes. Halfway up there is a Thank God flake to grab onto and feel good about.

Location

This is one of the leftmost routes on the southeast face of Wipeyur Buttress. Look for the major gully from which multiple steep bolted lines originate.

Protection

11 bolts plus top anchor.

Photos

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I feel like this would be super popular if it wasn't five bolts up the gully. Once the route actually starts, it is really enjoyable if not a little heady despite the super safe bolting. May 10, 2018

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