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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Racing Stripes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slanty Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,402 total · 15/month
Shared By: Adam B on May 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is on the lower left side of the buttress and if you follow the trail from mm 10 you end up at the base. It climbs the second set of bolts on the south slab. Nice views and fun climbing.

From the guidebook: "Begin on the lower left side of the slab near an indentation. This route features some of the thinnest slab climbing on the buttress."

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Brother Numsie   Nepal
Great job on the route description, really compelling. And informative too. Why did you bother? May 30, 2011
Carl H.  
Good warm-up route for the area. Sep 3, 2011
BameR
golden, co
BameR   golden, co
A little help with the description.... Instead on going to Devil's Head campgroup and parking area, stay right on Rampart Range Road, drive past the radio tower (on the west side, this is where radio head is), and before the 90 degree right hand switchback, there is a parking area for only 4-6 cars on the east side of the road with a little parking sign (about MM10 on CO 67). Descend the trail to the east into the gully, follow the cairns until you reach the south slab of the buttress, look for a cairn on the slab... descend the stairs and follow the trail to the southeast corner of the buttress just west of an aspen grove. The entire east face is bolted, I believe the guidebook has 24 routes on the east face from 5.9-5.13+. This is why you might want to get a guidebook. Also, from here you have easy access to the Chickenhead Wall, The Jungle, The Headstone, etc.... Very neat place with great views and awesome rock. Oct 24, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Found it real hard to stay on the bolt line. Some of the stances are really thin, so I crossed back and forth, following the weaknesses in the rock. Jun 14, 2012
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
Balancy, technical slab to a left-leaning crack where you can sink some jams. Not your typical gym 5.9! If you're not used to thin slabs, it may feel harder than 5.9. The bolts near the top feel a bit contrived, they try to force you right when you naturally want to go left. Jun 20, 2015
Excellent, sustained pitch; well-bolted though with committing second and third clips. For what it's worth: 3-inch or so cam between 6 & 7th bolts (crux bulge) turns a horrifying 10-foot potential fall into nerve-wracking 4-footer. Many annoying flies in late June. Apparently a talking elk lives near this crag, but we didn't hear him/her, nor see any elk. Talking elk may be a rumor; no word re: elk's language beyond regular elk sounds. Jun 29, 2018

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