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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Racing Stripes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 659 total · 9/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Nov 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details


This is not my route; I am just filling in the database.

This is fun. It shares the first part of Paper, (up to the roof), but continues right [straight up] to separate anchors. (Paper diverges left at the roof.)


This is the last route to the right, just past the large inset area with all the hard routes. It shares the first half of Paper, up a somewhat suspect-looking ramp to a roof. This is also where the trail heads east to other crags.


12 bolts to double anchors.


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Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
I really wanted to like this route (two stars in the guidebook!), but even after leading it then toproping it to clean the draws, I still didn't like it. The rock is a bit crumbly (pinched a hold to clip the last bolt only to have it disintegrate in my hand), the moves are a bit weird, and the line seemed a bit contrived (I kept wanting to go left onto Paper). Jun 20, 2015
Patrick Yarbrough
Colorado Springs, CO
Patrick Yarbrough   Colorado Springs, CO
Everyone is saying this route is crumbly, but I think it must have cleaned up, because all of the holds felt very solid to me. It isn't as nice as Paper to the left, but it is still a fun climb. I'm not sure a 60m will make it (I saw another party that had to belay their second up from the alcove to the left, rather than at the bottom of the climb), but a 70m is fine. Regardless, it is a solid route and almost certainly a grade more difficult than the other 5.9s on the same formation. Oct 16, 2016
Kirsten KDog
Kirsten KDog  
Ugh, not good. I thought this would be better than it was what with the book ratings and all. Kitty litter slab to start, then crumbly awkward roof, then more questionable rock to the top. I think A LOT of stuff has broken off on this one. Rock quality not good. I wouldn't do this again. Aug 14, 2017

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