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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Racing Stripes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slanty Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Samet, September 2009
Page Views: 743 total · 10/month
Shared By: percious on Jul 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

In between the main buttresses is a steep slab with a large roof above. This climb is the middle climb up the slab. Climb up the slab to a set of anchors (5.11d). Set up for the roof and go for it. I have not done the second pitch. The first pitch is a worthwhile outing itself.

Location

This is to the left of Tusk.

Protection

8 draws.

Photos

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I'm pretty sure you can get down off the top pitch with a 60m, so probably the full route (P1 + P2) is closer to 100 feet. It helps to have some long slings out and around the roof area for drag and keeping your rope off a sharp lip. I remember a fair bit of power-funk getting up and over the lip, then some scooging along an offset seam--V6 or 5.12+ range for the total sequence. The route was originally done as one pitch, then the midway anchors were added later.

FA: early September, 2009. Jul 27, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Fun route, with delicate, open-hand side-pull climbing in the lower crux. I think that calling the lower crux 5.11 is a bit of a sandbag (I think it's probably solid at 12a...especially compared to other 12a's at DH). Oct 9, 2012
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
Brown Bunny is not currently the left-most bolt line on the slab. Brown Bunny goes up the middle of the slab (to the left of Tusk), and the intermediate anchor under the roof is visible from the ground. On my first trip to Wipeyur Buttress in June 2015, I noticed another line of bolts to the left of Brown Bunny and to the right of Turd Burglar, it is not on Mountain Project or in the Fixed Pin guidebook. This line is currently the left-most bolt line on the slab. I cannot see if there's an anchor at the top, so I'm not even sure if it is a completed route. Does anyone know anything about it? Oct 27, 2015

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