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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Junk in the Trunk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plastic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Racing Stripes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slanty Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 231 total · 3/month
Shared By: gordwah on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start on the obvious slab below the roof which is about 10a. Then, go to the short and steep dihedral. The crux is reaching out of the dihedral to a hold that looks like a tusked shaped turd then go for a sloping rail and traverse to the right to the roof and hang on for dear life to the anchors.

Location

This is the route on the slab between Brown Bunny and Exit Only that goes up the dihedral and goes right to the roof. The tusk did not drop!

Protection

9 bolts to a classic DH sport anchor!

Photos

aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11d
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11d
Fun! A deadpoint at the 5th bolt for the shorter climbers (I'm 5'7" with 0 ape index) to get your heart pumping, a bouldery crux pulling out to the arete, then turn the final overhang on jugs (if you can find them) to the anchor. What's not to like? Jun 20, 2015

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