Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Tod Anderson, Summer 2009
Page Views: 1,835 total · 20/month
Shared By: percious on Jul 11, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pull through a series of crumbling overhangs to a short roof with an excellent undercling. Pull a few hard moves through the overhang, and watch with amazement as another 'hang appears above. Follow some intricate moves to the second overhang, then pull through and right over the lip to easier (5.10) face climbing.

Sustained, pumpy, long, this is a must do. It is recommended that it be cleaned by a second, since cleaning from the top can result in an unsafe swing.

Location

It is just left of the blunt arete of the lower right butress. Find a well-bolted overhang with crumbling rock at the start.

Protection

16? draws.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Difficult to describe gradewise and quality wise, it has a lot of poor rock on it, with the start bordering on comical (although it isn't funny while you are leading it - stick clip the 2nd bolt). However, the climbing on it is excellent.

The crux isn't excessively difficult, but the crumbly feet and being wound up from the loose start kind of added some weight to my chalkbag. Getting in a good position to clip the next bolt took some patience.

Definitely clean the route by TR'ing it - trying to do so on rappel or lowering would not be fun. Sep 10, 2012
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.12a
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.12a
Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe! Aug 30, 2013
Tre
Fort Collins, CO
Tre   Fort Collins, CO
Jumped on what I think is this route last weekend, following the bolt line took me all the way to the top ledge with two sets of anchors. It was probably 16 bolts, though, which makes me wonder if it was Snapping Station. Anyone know if there's a lower set of anchors I blew by? Or maybe I should man up and start skipping bolts....

Awesome route, don't clean on rappel. Jun 9, 2014
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
I thought the anchor of this route could have been placed at the 8th bolt. The climbing above is 5.10 slab (shared with Paper to the right), and really doesn't add anything to the route other than rope drag.

To answer Tre's question: the ledge with two sets of anchor is the proper finish. The anchor on the right is for Snapping Station and Paper, the anchor on the left is for Holy Crap. Nov 14, 2015
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
^^^ Having the anchor higher anchor adds, well, fun, 5.10, slab climbing on good rock. There are definitely some routes at DH that would be better with lower anchors (some stuff on Crimpfest comes to mind), but this is not one of those routes. Personally, I am glad the anchor is higher. Nov 14, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
^^^ I agree with you that the slab is fun 5.10 climbing on good rock, and if no other route climbs the same slab, then putting the anchor up there adds something, but there is a 5.10 (Paper) around the corner that climbs the same top section, so anyone looking to do a "fun 5.10 slab" can climb Paper and get much more consistent and enjoyable climbing from bottom to top. For anyone jumping on a 5.12, I doubt that the 5.10 slab at the top is going to be the highlight of the route , and this slab adds much wear and tear on the rope when you're cleaning the draws. Nov 24, 2015
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
 
There is some good climbing on this route, but it is short lived. Sep 13, 2017
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
I'd agree that an intermediate anchor would be pretty nice for this pitch. There's heinous rope drag on the upper slab, even using long draws and backcleaning strategically. Lowering over the roof really thrashes your rope. The slab is ok climbing but is pretty much a gimme if you can get that far and is pretty out of character with the rest of the route. It feels like climbing a mandatory second pitch after doing the climb that you came there for. Jun 3, 2018
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Really fun route! Be careful before clipping the first bolt -- some foot stuff may be crumbly. The climbing under the overhangs is spectacular! The slab stuff above seems kind of unnecessary, though. We didn't have any problem cleaning after leading. Sep 3, 2018