[Hide Comment] Difficult to describe gradewise and quality wise, it has a lot of poor rock on it, with the start bordering on comical (although it isn't funny while you are leading it - stick clip the 2nd bolt). However, the climbing on it is excellent.

The crux isn't excessively difficult, but the crumbly feet and being wound up from the loose start kind of added some weight to my chalkbag. Getting in a good position to clip the next bolt took some patience.

Definitely clean the route by TR'ing it - trying to do so on rappel or lowering would not be fun. Sep 10, 2012

[Hide Comment] Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe! Aug 30, 2013

[Hide Comment] Jumped on what I think is this route last weekend, following the bolt line took me all the way to the top ledge with two sets of anchors. It was probably 16 bolts, though, which makes me wonder if it was Snapping Station. Anyone know if there's a lower set of anchors I blew by? Or maybe I should man up and start skipping bolts....

Awesome route, don't clean on rappel. Jun 9, 2014

[Hide Comment] I thought the anchor of this route could have been placed at the 8th bolt. The climbing above is 5.10 slab (shared with Paper to the right), and really doesn't add anything to the route other than rope drag.

To answer Tre's question: the ledge with two sets of anchor is the proper finish. The anchor on the right is for Snapping Station and Paper, the anchor on the left is for Holy Crap. Nov 14, 2015

[Hide Comment] ^^^ Having the anchor higher anchor adds, well, fun, 5.10, slab climbing on good rock. There are definitely some routes at DH that would be better with lower anchors (some stuff on Crimpfest comes to mind), but this is not one of those routes. Personally, I am glad the anchor is higher. Nov 14, 2015

[Hide Comment] ^^^ I agree with you that the slab is fun 5.10 climbing on good rock, and if no other route climbs the same slab, then putting the anchor up there adds something. But there is a 5.10 (Paper) around the corner that climbs the same top section, so anyone looking to do a "fun 5.10 slab" can climb Paper and get much more consistent and enjoyable climbing from bottom to top. For anyone jumping on a 5.12, I doubt that the 5.10 slab at the top is going to be the highlight of the route, and this slab adds much wear and tear on the rope when you're cleaning the draws. Nov 24, 2015

[Hide Comment] There is some good climbing on this route, but it is short lived. Sep 13, 2017

[Hide Comment] I'd agree that an intermediate anchor would be pretty nice for this pitch. There's heinous rope drag on the upper slab, even using long draws and backcleaning strategically. Lowering over the roof really thrashes your rope. The slab is ok climbing but is pretty much a gimme if you can get that far and is pretty out of character with the rest of the route. It feels like climbing a mandatory second pitch after doing the climb that you came there for. Jun 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] Really fun route! Be careful before clipping the first bolt -- some foot stuff may be crumbly. The climbing under the overhangs is spectacular! The slab stuff above seems kind of unnecessary, though. We didn't have any problem cleaning after leading. Sep 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] Can you do 10 pull-ups and have terrible footwork? If so, this could be a great first 12a! It's hard for me to call it 12a, since it has some huge holds and is not sustained. I suppose it's a V4 boulder to 5.10 climbing.

Actually, who cares? It's a fun climb. A very short lived, yet burly, crux leads to enjoyable climbing. Back clean as many draws as you can. May 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] There's a lot of complaints in the comments about rope drag, but it really wasn't bad at all. Extend bolts 2 and 4, and then unclip bolt 10 or 11 or so (whichever is out right of the obvious bolt line once above the roof) once you clip the bolt above it, and you'll be golden to the anchor. Fun line! The bottom is still pretty chossy but not bad enough to avoid trying it because of it.

Enjoyed the upper slab and didn't think the roof was worse on the rope than any other roof anywhere in the Front Range, but I also totally think an intermediate anchor would be reasonable as well. Aug 13, 2023