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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 918 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jason Platt on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start using the crack system under the left roof. Once you reach the arete traverse to the right crack system by pulling around a small arete. Then climb to right crack to just beneath the roofs. Pull up between the roofs to top out. The crux is the top out where the feet run out. Good variety of movements and features for such a short climb at this grade.

Location

About 30 feet east (downhill) from Nemesis Tower, look for the two roofs that look a little like a mouth.

Protection

A few small-medium cams will be fine to lead it or a top rope can be easily set up with gear.

Photos

Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
The rock on this is broken, sketchy, and loose. I would be very wary climbing it. Oct 10, 2017
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.7
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.7
Fun little route! Nov 23, 2016
Vardan Ter-Antonyan
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Vardan Ter-Antonyan   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
I'm with Jason on this one! Bob Horan has a bouldering guide. These routes are not bouldering routes, these are rock faces, so they can not possibly be in that guidebook. I call BS. We are climbing and naming these routes and grading them so that people can come and climb them. We are not claiming FAs, we are not some amateur jerks who just want to be more important than we are. If these routes stay unnamed and ungraded, no one will climb them. If you are jealous, you should try to climb one that's not on the list here on MP and name it yourself. If you have proof that these routes have different names, we will gladly change the names, and just because there is a route with that name on a Horsetooth Mountain doesn't mean there can't be another route somewhere else named the same way. There are in fact a lot of examples of different routes having the same exact name and that's totally fine. Aug 16, 2014
Jason Platt  
 
I'm not claiming any first ascent or anything. I'm just adding fun climbs so that others even know that they exist. If you have any updates, feel free. Aug 14, 2014
Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
All the routes at Torture Chamber have names and grades already.

There is a route on Horsetooth Mountain already called Straight Out of the Horse's Mouth put up in the '90s by the great Craig Luebben.

I would suggest that both of you remove your additions to Torture Chamber.

If you're going to add routes to MP, then at least reference the proper resources. Horan's guide has detailed info about the Torture Chamber or you may contact anyone on the NC3 Board. Aug 13, 2014
Vardan Ter-Antonyan
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Vardan Ter-Antonyan   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Definitely looks like a straight up finger crack (at least a 10). I'm gonna try to trad lead it this Sunday after trying your route. I'm pretty sure it has been climbed before of course. Thanks for replying. Aug 12, 2014
Jason Platt  
 
It does look interesting, and I'm sure it has been climbed. I didn't get around to it, since I was soloing on this outing and that looked in the 10 range to me. Aug 11, 2014
Vardan Ter-Antonyan
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Vardan Ter-Antonyan   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Nice route Jason, gotta climb it one of these days. Does the thin vertical crack on the right side of the picture (where the green bush is) have a name and rating? Looks interesting. Aug 11, 2014