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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Boulder
FA: Gill, 1960s
Page Views: 4,527 total, 26/month
Shared By: Mike Epke on May 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Begin the problem down the ridge at the end of the first band of rocks, this is the Torture Chamber. The problem is a continuous, juggy traverse up the ridge to the right keeping the feet as high as possible, a long traverse without a doubt. Variations exist, probably all with a FA by Gill too, using smaller holds for the hands and keeping the feet higher. All the variations make the problem more difficult.


A pad and a spotter can be helpful, but not at all necessary as the route never is more then a few feet above the ground.


Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Without heelhooks, one is essentially campusing most of the problem while smearing their toes along a horizontal roof onto small edges, while completing a forty foot traverse.

For what it's worth, I started the traverse from the upper right end and toe-hooked my way from right-to-left for the first twenty feet or so while facing east from the top. Burly and strenuous, I completed a portion of the problem then jumped off. Sep 27, 2009
Jordan A.  
Work all the way up (to the obvious pocket end/topout) and back down (left) for a nice little pump. Use the sweet kneebar 3/4 of the way through for extended rest if need be. The rotten band is bad form. Nov 2, 2007
Oh snap! Nov 17, 2005
Actually Adam, I just found out on Gill's website that along with "the no feet on the rotten band" rule, Gill say's that his way was "No Heelhooks Allowed" either. Better bump my grading up B1+ !! Jul 22, 2003
Old Fart, Gill calls that way the True Torture Chamber, he he. Here's a pic of Gill on it:… Jul 22, 2003
When I first moved here in '73 the "8mm" (beta wasn't around yet) was that on the "real "Torture Traverse your feet couldn't touch the rotten band under the overhang. I would say that done this way, it's probably about v3-4 with 2-3 separate "cruxes" but all in all a heel hooking masterpiece ! Jun 8, 2003