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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,081 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 12, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is yet another great crack that is to the immediate left of Cracky Face. The three climb's in this immediate area (S Crack, Cracky Face, and, Final Finger are excellent climbs.

Protection

Cams and webbing are good for top roping this climb.

Photos

tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.9+
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.9+
Real fun quality route, felt about 5.9+. Jan 11, 2017
JFM
JFM  
This route is located further down-ridge from Nemesis Tower. May 2, 2014
Jimn Seiler
North Platte, NE
 
Jimn Seiler   North Platte, NE
 
I think that the general consensus is that most of the Torture Chamber is a clusterbomb as far as ratings go and I'm not sure where it started or came from or if I am even on the right climbs, I think I was? According to the guide books I've used I thought I was but I agree that those ratings are not just a little off they are whole grades off, what am I gonna do? Go climbing up Boulder Canyon on Saturday for some multi-pitch trad routes, Hopefully I am on the right ones and if not I hope I have fun. Mar 21, 2007
Umph!  
Hey, thanks for the info Jimn. It's hard to believe that Final Finger is rated 11-. But, There have been many Horan climbs that I couldn't (and can't!) do. I guess I was just having a stellar day (it was probably the 'roids/crank/viagara mixture I was experimenting with). I'll try them again sober. . . .
I tried that roof-route at Duncans and it 'bout kicked my ass. . . it's supposedly 10a, though I would argue 10+ - maybe I was sober that day. Mar 21, 2007
Jimn Seiler
North Platte, NE
 
Jimn Seiler   North Platte, NE
 
I did not rate these climbs as I thought they felt to me, I rated them in accordance to Bob Horan's Colorado Front Range Bouldering Volume 1. I would agree with the ratings seeming soft minus S-Crack. The ratings were as follows.

S-Crack - 5.10+c/d
Cracky Face - 5.10+c/d
Final Finger - B1- (the equivalent of V2 or 5.11a/b) Mar 21, 2007
Umph!  
I've been taking some classes at CSU, so have become somewhat intimate with the area. In the picture of Cracky Face, the crack to the climbers left (Final Finger) is seen. If this is Final Finger then it may be 5.9+, but certainly isn't 5.10d. . . nor is Cracky Face 10c.
That said, I do believe that the crux start for S-Crack is 10c or so.

Very short but fun stuff (all three) - however, the ratings sure seem to be off. Mar 19, 2007
ac
ac  
Jimn, do you realize you rated the quality of this route a "bomb" which means 0 stars, putrid, ugly rock, etc? But your written description of the route says "excellent". You may be accidentally using the "bomb" when you didn't intend to. Jul 6, 2004