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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: John Gill
Page Views: 2,689 total, 16/month
Shared By: Clay Young on Sep 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the right edge of the roof behind the tree, 25 yards from the top. Bump out to the end the switch your feet and heel hook the prow.

Per Jed Smith: this is an awesome climb that starts under a large roof and climbs out and around the face of the overhang. Start in the crack immediately to the left of a large chockstone with an X on it (very, very loose). From the crack, make a large move to an excellent ledge on the right side of the roof. Then pull around the face onto another jug. The crux is getting your feet up and pulling to hard-to-see jugs and crimps. The climb tops out underneath the canopy of a ponderosa pine. Downclimb the tree or top out and walk around.

Eds. Two submissions were combined here to avoid duplication.

Location

Per Jed Smith: this is located under the first large overhang, approximately 40 yards down from the parking area. There is a large ponderosa pine tree directly west of the climb.

Protection

Top rope or crash pad with a good spot.

Per Jed Smith: the landing is not very flat, and you can wind up horizontal if you use a very solid heel hook at the crux. Two pads should be enough with a spotter.

Photos

Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  V1
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  V1
Jordan A.
  V0
Jordan A.  
  V0
The left heel beta as demonstrated in the picture is definitely scarier and possibly harder than the problem really is. I prefer to match my right heel on the right handhold (same as in picture) and go from there. Either way it's a heady little jug fest. Oct 16, 2007
Boulder problems don't get much better than this. Follow the jugs along the right side of the overhang, and up and over the lip. It's about V0+ or 5.10c. Jun 13, 2006