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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,389 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.

Location

This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.

Protection

Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.

Photos

Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
This route went safely with three nuts - a small one to protect the thin, vertical crack at the start, a very small one where the crack goes horizontal, and a medium one in the good slot that's used for a left hand hold. From there, it's clear to the top. Fun line! Feb 8, 2017
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.10b/c
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.10b/c
Super good climb, great moves, and great rock! Dec 20, 2016
Drew Hallett
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
Drew Hallett   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO. Oct 22, 2013
Aaron Martinuzzi
  5.10d PG13
Aaron Martinuzzi  
  5.10d PG13
This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.

Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds. Aug 27, 2009

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