Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,507 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.

Location

This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.

Protection

Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.

Photos

Aaron Martinuzzi
  5.10d PG13
Aaron Martinuzzi  
  5.10d PG13
This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.

Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds. Aug 27, 2009
Drew Hallett
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
Drew Hallett   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO. Oct 22, 2013
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.10b/c
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.10b/c
Super good climb, great moves, and great rock! Dec 20, 2016
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
This route went safely with three nuts - a small one to protect the thin, vertical crack at the start, a very small one where the crack goes horizontal, and a medium one in the good slot that's used for a left hand hold. From there, it's clear to the top. Fun line! Feb 8, 2017