Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,464 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.

Location

This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.

Protection

Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.

Photos

Aaron Martinuzzi
  5.10d PG13
Aaron Martinuzzi  
  5.10d PG13
This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.

Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds. Aug 27, 2009
Drew Hallett
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
Drew Hallett   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO. Oct 22, 2013
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.10b/c
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.10b/c
Super good climb, great moves, and great rock! Dec 20, 2016
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
This route went safely with three nuts - a small one to protect the thin, vertical crack at the start, a very small one where the crack goes horizontal, and a medium one in the good slot that's used for a left hand hold. From there, it's clear to the top. Fun line! Feb 8, 2017

More About S-Crack

Printer-Friendly