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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death ArĂȘte V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,118 total, 26/month
Shared By: Vardan Ter-Antonyan on Apr 26, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start the route just like the "Sagas 50" until you get to the roof (Roofus). Once you get to the roof, go straight up the roof without going left or right of it. The Roofus is the crux of the route. There is only 1 good hold on the roof itself, the rest are slopey. There is a loose and moving hand hold on the right side, but it can be used gently. It is a very interesting route that requires a lot of upper body strength, but finding foot holds (which is not easy) is the key.

Location

The route is located right next to "WTF".

Park the car at the parking area, follow the trail, and it's the first wall with a roof after the boulders. It is in the same area as "Sagas 50" and "Dos Gorditos".

Protection

We would recommend to top rope this route, because the roof is hard and there is only 1 spot to place a small and iffy piece of pro way below the roof. So falling is highly not recommended.

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