Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
GPS: 44.36866, -121.14442
FA: unknown
Page Views: 957 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Nov 12, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

An exciting and well protected route that epitomizes the adventure of climbing obscure trad routes at Smith. Start on easy climbing  with good feet while placing pro. A brief section of fingers leads into a flare. Pick a shoulder to lead with and go for it, its very strenuous, slightly dirty, and very awkward. At the top of the chimney flare exit using the crack to the left. A very needed rest welcomes you here. Place a yellow C3 in the right crack or brown tri cam in the left near where the old bolt used to be. Then comes the lieback crux, great handholds with no feet here, but you'll hit a ledge soon. There are a few slightly loose blocks above here but it's not hard to avoid them. The anchors are pretty high, and there isn't much hard climbing getting to them. A 70M rope only reaches on rappel with all gear clean and no knots in the rope!

Location Suggest change

Between Juniper Face and the Reason to Be Arete, look for the chimney.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of slings! especially for the top. lots of yellow to red Metolius are nice, and a #3 Camalot size was nice for pulling the roof. A sling might be nicer than harness racking on this one.

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