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Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Down's Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 100 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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An exciting and well protected route that epitomizes the adventure of climbing obscure trad routes at Smith. Start on easy climbing heading towards a somewhat unnecessary bolt. A brief section of fingers leads into a flare. Pick a shoulder to lead with and go for it, its very strenuous, slightly dirty, and very awkward. At the top of the chimney flare exit using the crack to the left. A very needed rest welcomes you here before the bolt protected lieback crux, great handholds with no feet here, but you'll hit a ledge soon. Above this bolt I saw a lot of loose blocks but it's not hard to avoid them. The anchors are pretty high, and there isn't much hard climbing getting to them. A 70M rope only reaches on rappel with all gear clean and no knots in the rope!


Between Juniper Face and the Reason to Be Arete, look for the chimney and a bolt low down.


Lots of slings! especially for the top. lots of yellow to red Metolius are nice, and a #3 Camalot size was nice for pulling the roof. A sling might be nicer than harness racking on this one.


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