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Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Across the Great Divide T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cliff Dwelling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Juniper Face S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Minas Morgul T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Alan Watts, Chris Grover, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 413 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jan 31, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Generally neglected, Minus Morgul is actually one of the more splitter finger cracks at Smith. While the business is short-lived, what's there is quality climbing on decent stone. Historically guarded by fixed gear that was mint in the early 80s, this thing recently got updated. (the 5/16" wedge bolt was replaced with a glue in as was the fixed pin that came out by hand)
P1: (5.8) Approach either via a bolted slab on the leaning block or via naturally protected climbing up the chimney to a semi-hanging stance below the splitter.
P2: (5.11d) Clip a bolt off the anchor (previously a fixed pin) and crank up the splitter finger crack to a small roof and another bolt. The anchor is encountered shortly after turning the lip and pitches one and two link logically. Most rap from here, but purists can continue above to the top of the wall.
P3: (5.9) This is the same finish as for Down Syndrome. Climb the low angle crack staying right where the crack forks to stay on slightly harder terrain with better rock. Belay on handsized gear and an ancient bolt (or just gear...) at the top of the wall. Either walk/scramble off left or rap from a bolted anchor south of where you topped out.
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