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Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Down's Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Jim Anglin & Mike Hartley Jan 1, 1981
FFA: Tim Garlund
Page Views: 1,889 total, 14/month
Shared By: corvegas on Jan 24, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

[No longer a nailing route, this has been freed at 5.13a]

Best nailing route at smith. A3 in the Watts guide. As always aid ratings are subjective.

P1 - 4th class - Scramble up to the 4th class ledge, belay from two bolts.

P2 - 5.6 A2+ - Free climb up to the aid cracks, begin on clean aid with aliens, aid past retro bolt belay into a shallow diheadral, belay from bolts, below roof.

P3 - 5.4 A2+ - Pull the roof on a fixed KB and continue up the crack, the rock gets rotten but there are a few 3 bolts and a belay 20ft below the top. Aid past below free climb through the killer top out, belay from juniper tree. (only one bolt is original from the FA)

Location

The biggest steepest part of the Mesa Verde Wall

Protection

Full aid rack to with cams to 2inches. Sawed angles and beaks are helpfull.

Photos

Jack is correct. This route can still be aid climbed, just like any route. However as posted above, please no nailing. Original nailing is what tore up the seem in the soft rock to create the locks I used to climb this. Aug 14, 2013
Only the first aid pitch was freed with added bolts (next to a crack) and moving original bolts to satisfy personal needs. The entire route is still an aid climb. Nov 27, 2012
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This has been freed at 5.13a.

FA: Tim Garland Oct 17, 2011