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Across the Great Divide
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Across the Great Divide T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cliff Dwelling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Juniper Face S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Minas Morgul T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Gabe Coler, Jim Ablao (2010?) |
| Page Views: | 560 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jun 16, 2021 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is a great route for the seasoned Smith Rock mud adventurer. If you've done Abraxas, Freedom, and others and are looking for more, this one is perfect for you. It has some swaths of truly beautiful climbing on great rock, some sections of total garbage, and everything in between. (FWIW most of the worst rock is while you're still climbing on Chimney de Chelly)
I'm fairly sure we did the second ascent today over 10 years after the FA, (at the very least, my bail gear on the second pitch from an attempt in ~2013 was still there) so I'm posting the topo here to try and encourage more than 1 repeat per decade. (and because Gabe's topo is beautiful and the world should see it!) Part of what makes this thing cool is having to actually quest up it to get through it. (IMO 'quest' is the most over- and mis-used verb in the modern climbing vernacular, but it feels like an appropriate term here to describe all the groping up blank, slightly friable rock w/zero chalk found on P3) It would be cool to keep future comments here qualitative and not let them dilute the uncertainty and adventure inherent in going ground up on a route with only a hand-drawn topo. (or hand painted in this case)
Photos
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