Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rogers Cox Johnson 72' Free: Thomas Davis 76'
Page Views: 5,899 total · 38/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 1, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Trezlar is the awesome dihedral on the left hand side of the crag.
Pitch 1:
Climb the mangy lower section of the dihedral (5.7) or climb Cosmos (10a sport) for the first Pitch and traverse over from the top (much better)

Pitch 2:
Classic stemming and jamming up the impressive dihedral for 100+ feet.

Rap from the top of Pitch two with double ropes.



Doubles from thin up to 3". Hexes would actually work well on this.


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
We did Cosmos to Trezlar. This is definitely the way to go, as the first pitch of Trezlar looks like crap.

After climbing Cosmos, clip the Cosmos anchor and make an easy traverse to the base of the 2nd pitch of Trezlar. You'll need to build an anchor for this belay (small gear).

Trezlar is classic, fun stemming that goes from big hands (#3 camalot size) to fingers. No move is very hard, but it is wickedly continuous for the grade.

There is a scary flake that you can't avoid about half way up the pitch. It is cracked on all four sides. I don't want to be there when that thing goes... it'll go right on your belayer :( The flake gave me the creeps and definitely lessened the quality of the pitch for me.

The top anchors are quite a bit more "climber's right" than I expected.

We rapped with 2 ropes, but a 70m rope would get you to the Cosmos anchors. And then you could rap again from there. I would do that next time. May 13, 2007
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
"There is a scary flake that you can't avoid about half way up the pitch. It is cracked on all four sides. I don't want to be there when that thing goes... it'll go right on your belayer :( The flake gave me the creeps and definitely lessened the quality of the pitch for me."

Yup - had same thoughts.

I've led this route. My wife led this route. We're done - never going back to it. Mar 5, 2008
Looks pretty possible to just lead it from the Cosmos anchor, if you use shoulder length or double length slings on the first few pieces. Mar 28, 2010
It's also possible to do this in one pitch- start up M.L.O's 5.7 slab, then traverse right after the second bolt into trezlar's corner. It's a bit run out, but links up nicely. Doubles In BD #1 and #2, the rest takes a standard rack. Solid line. Jun 14, 2010
I led it yesterday by following Thesenga's suggestion of building an anchor and belaying at the top of the 5.7 (actually clipped three bolts on the 10c, and traversed over). It worked great in terms of leading the 10a section, but it sucked to have to build that anchor. The Trezlar crack above is deep and easy to protect, while this belay stance has a shallow, wavy crack. It's possible to build a good anchor, but takes a bit more work than is worth it. The Cosmos anchor is too far off line to belay from there.
My recommendation is to do the 5.7, maybe with one or two bolts of the 10c clipped with 48" slings, and then just head up the corner. I think this would be the most efficient way to do it. You'll probably need a 70 to make it to the anchors from the ground. Contrary to a note above, I thought the full rappel (with two 60's) from the anchor was really fun. It is a bit of work pulling the ropes, though - there's a fair amount of friction up there. Jul 1, 2010
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
Is the death flake still up there? Jun 4, 2011
Douglas Thalacker
Douglas Thalacker   Seattle
Did this route this morning, excellent! Incredibly sustained for the grade.

I don't know if we are talking about the same flake, a little bigger than a hand or so, but it came off on me today. Luckily I was able to catch it and throw it off where it wouldn't land on anybody. Hope that helps. Apr 8, 2012
No need to bring 2 ropes: a single 60m rap takes you down to the Screaming Yellow Zonkers anchor, and one more rap to the ground. Knot your ends on both raps. The SYZ anchor is down past a lip and a bit to the right, so you can't see it right away but it's no problem to get there. Just knot your ends.

Trezlar is a great route! And the first pitch is not bad, the pro is maybe a bit tricky but a 10a leader can sew it up with solid pro. Jun 28, 2012
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
If linking via planet luxury, climb to bolt 5 where the traverse is much easier. I popped a nubbin after traversing from bolt 3 and took a freaking nasty upside down slab fall, I guess the second pitch will have to wait for another day. Jun 28, 2012
The flake is still up there, and still pretty scary. It's at the first overhung/bulge section. I initially thought it was solid, but when I finger locked behind the flake and pulled down, I actually felt the jam expand (Scary!). Make sure you protect below the flake and after it, but not in it. As for the descent, a 70m should get you to the Screamin' Yellow Zonkers Anchor, and then another repel down. Just watch out when you pull the rope, as it rockets right at your face. Also, I did the route as one pitch with a 70m, clipped two bolts on the face, then traversed into the dihedral, and it worked out great with no extra belay in the middle. Jul 15, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
We approached via the first six bolts of Planet Luxury. 5.9ish climbing to a super-easy rightward traverse. Use runners. We also saw the previous pair climb Cosmos, belay second who continued up to the nook, then belayed again. Anchor here takes .5 and .75 down low, totally solid.

"The flake" is actually a 5'x5' guillotine-shaped patina-flake that sounds completely hollow. It has felt a lot of greasy climber fingers over the years, and with just a little TLC will feel many more. Use nuts to protect above, and don't pull out on the bottom, but don't let it scare you away.

This route is about 20 feet of off-hands warm-up to 80 feet of continuous pumpy jamming and lie-backing. There is really only one good rest. Gear at the last 10 feet is questionable at best; I pumped out and popped a blue master cam just before the top out and took a 25-footer. Totally safe though.

With a single 60m Mammut rope we just BARELY made it to the Cosmos anchors. Spinner anchor bolts everywhere. Sep 22, 2014
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
Climbed this just the other day as one long pitch (about 170'). Clipped the first bolt, then went into the dirty dihedral and got a good cam above the suspect pin and then went up the 5.7, but loose and scary face on the right without pro. I couldn't see any pro in the mossy dihedral and it looked harder. This way was X-rated, and not recommended.
The upper dihedral is awesome and sustained, but... I didn't know about the death flake until I was climbing on it (you can't avoid it). I don't even want to know what that thing is holding on by, as it is clearly fractured on all sides and is separated from the wall by a few inches on its underside. That thing is a double-kill waiting to happen, and I won't be going back until it gets trundled. Nov 9, 2015
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Great route to end the day at this wall after pulling on nubbins for so many pitches. Excellent climbing, better views, two perfect belay ledges, and the corner is shaded all day long!

The first pitch I thought was actually pretty good if you don't want to climb half a sport route and traverse in. Sure, there are a couple loose flakes, but they are obvious and avoidable, and the pitch features fun easy stemming and adequate pro.

The flake is terrifying. It sounds solid, but I definitely didn't place any pro against it. Hopefully one of these winters it comes off with some freeze-thaw action... Apr 11, 2016
Did this on Memorial Day long weekend. 1-st pitch is not bad. You don't need to climb mossy dihedral. After the fixed pin I climbed the face to the right with good holds. The flake is there. I did not put any pro behind it as advised. On a second pitch I found couple of so-so rest spots just enough to de-pump. Without them I would not be able to finish it clean. Fantastic route! Jun 1, 2016
Denver, CO
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
Either the flake is gone, or it's not as much of a death flake as previous comments would suggest. Either way, Trezlar is a must do if you're nearby. two full 60m raps from the top. knot your ends. Jun 15, 2016
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
I didn't notice the flake, my buddy 2 weeks later did. Jul 16, 2016