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Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Down's Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 157 total, 2/month
Shared By: caughtinside on May 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Cows in Agony is a one pitch sport route on the center of the Mesa Verde Wall, just uphill and south from the excellent Reason to Be.

Start just right of a wide crack. Opening moves are tough, consider stick clipping the first bolt. Continue up, staying left of the bolt line. I hate to use the word 'contrived' but this one really felt it. I was way left following the holds and making big reaches right to clip. This route inexplicably gets three stars in the new Watts guide.

Step to center at the final bolt and execute a neat sequence to top out on the ledge and clip the old anchor.

Location

South but uphill from reason to be on Mesa Verde wall.

Protection

6 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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another Chad  
 
The anchor atop this route has aluminum Metolius hangers (not rap hangers) with nothing on them except for a locking carabiner that's stuck on the right hanger. The next time someone's out there to climb this or neighboring Cliff Dwelling Crack, consider bringing up a pair of pliers to unscrew the carabiner gate that's stuck up there and installing some quicklinks & rings. Replacing the aluminum hangers with steel hangers would be nice also (you'll need a 1/2" socket for the bolts that are up there).


Chad Oct 20, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
Three stars in Watts new guide, bomb here. I took the gamble. Contrived is right. The final two bolts make the climb... almost... worth it. But I won't be back. Apr 14, 2012