Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Down's Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Collum and Matt Kerns 1988
Page Views: 2,171 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Spicy.
Climb the arete to the right of Tale of Two Shitties using the arete and crimps. The climbing and rock are excellent, the bolts are a bit spaced making it a lil' scary. Bolts anywhere other than where they are would be extremely hard to clip. Perhaps a bit hard for the grade (aren't all 10.d's at Smith?)

Location

to the right and below Tale of Two Shitties.

Protection

draws

Photos

Fun climb but the second or third is hard to clip if you are shorter than 5'6". Aug 24, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
The 1st bolt stud is rusty and loose in its hole, it should be replaced ASAP Jul 17, 2017
Jacob Jones1993
Kirkland WA
Jacob Jones1993   Kirkland WA
Awesome climb, however every bolt but the last one spins Sep 6, 2016
Phildlm
  5.11a
Phildlm  
  5.11a
Agreed. This isn't a 10d. It's an 11a. There are easier 11a's in the park for sure. It's pumpy and requires excellent footwork. I think this is one of those routes that puts your footwork to the test. It also puts your finger pads to the test with pretty small and sharp right hand holds on the face. Mar 24, 2016
Jon Golle
Tacoma, Wa
Jon Golle   Tacoma, Wa
I found the first bolt to be loose. The hanger was spinning and the bolt was moving in the hole. Aug 17, 2015
peachy spohn  
 
An amazing arete with very fun moves. I think the new Watts guide is correct with the grade of .11a. Highly recommended. Jun 27, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10d
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.10d
Good climb but the bolt placements are pretty bad in my opinion. For both the second and third bolts I found stances a few feet below them that would've made much better places to clip from. It's nice and spicy though, which can be fun.

I actually felt that the crux came at the last couple of moves before the jugs at the top, just after clipping the final bolt. All the holds up there seem to be sidepulls making for a couple of delicate smears.

Also, as of Sept. 23rd, 2006 all of the bolts were spinners. Sep 24, 2006
bryans
 
bryans  
 
sweet climb. you'll wish it was longer, though you'll probably be pumped as it is. would be a "name" climb if it was on the frontside. Jun 19, 2006
mark d
 
mark d  
 
one of the best 5.10 aretes at smith. well worth the walk. Apr 3, 2006