Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Down's Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Thomas Chis Jones Mike Hartley 78
Page Views: 2,220 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An excellent three pitch climb follows the right-hand side of the formation. The 2nd pitch is great climbing.

Pitch 1:
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)
5.7

Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.
10.a

Pitch 3:
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.
5.9R

The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.

Location

Right of Bad Moon Rising there is a large block leaning against the face, it has two bolts on it. The second crack system to the right of the block is Tale.

Protection

gear to 3" with an extra hand size for the anchor on top of pitch 1.

Photos

P1 felt 5.8.

The 10a hand traverse on P2 has great jugs for hands but no feet, so instead of trying to place protection in the middle I placed something early and went for it. There was quite a bit of space below me on both sides, so it might have been an ok fall even with the slight swing.

I thought some of the 5.9 moves between the bolts on P3 had ledge fall potential. Jun 28, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10b PG13
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10b PG13
I enjoyed this route but found the first pitch was tricky to protect at the start and had plenty of loose and creaky flakes/blocks. The P1 belay was not too inspiring and would benefit from a set of fixed anchors given how hollow and soft the rock is.

Pitch 2 is great and of high quality. It ends at a comfy belay platform with belay bolts.

One can avoid the R rated pitch by rapping down to anchors on the climber's right (easily spotted from the belay station) with 3 raps on a 60m or 2 raps on a 70m rope.

Gear I would recommend:

1 set of nuts (include the bigger nuts & offset nuts worked well)
Camalot sizes 0.4 - 3.0 with double 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2 Apr 4, 2016
Daniel Vakili
  5.10a
Daniel Vakili  
  5.10a
60m rope ran right up to the top of the second belay. Now that's a proper pitch of climbing. Highly recommended. Aug 31, 2015
stj
 
stj  
 
Well worth doing for the second pitch finger crack action. It would be very popular if it was a single pitch off the ground. And you don't need 2 ropes to get down: rap with one 60m from the top of Trezlar (see my comment on that route). Jun 28, 2012
Roche  
Heather of Seattle, grabbed your Mountain Hardwear vest at the bottom of the pitch. Happy to get it back to you in return for a your Enchantments pass. Get ahold of me and I'll send it your way.

Great route. Super fun, powerful crux. Protect it with a #1 then fire it! May 1, 2008